McGillicuddy

McGillicuddy (or Gilly, for short) is a direct line up the proudest pillar on the magnificent north face of Mount Gilbert. This is a serious objective because loose rock is abundant, especially on the lower half of the route. The roof pitch is super intimidating but goes at a moderate grade.

P

itch 1 (5.7+, 200'):

Start at the lowest point of the prow in a short right-facing corner which feeds into a devious left-facing ramp. Continue straight up on loose scree ledges with the occasional 5th class move.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 100'):

Head straight up on clean handcracks until things get difficult, then traverse right into the large gully. Build a belay just before entering the gully.

Pitch 3 (5.7+, 200'):

Stem up the loose mossy chimney, moving from side to side as needed. Continue through a swath of decomposing metamorphic rock and belay among the twin Black Towers.

Pitch 4 (4th class, 200'):

Scramble around the right side of the upper Black Tower and move right on a ledge below clean white/green granite. Set a belay below steeper cracks on the granite face.

Pitch 5 (5.8, 120'):

Rock quality finally improves here. Jam a series of cracks directly on the arete. Cool position! Belay on the last comfortable ledge before the steep stuff.

Pitch 6 (5.10a, 150')

: Wild! Stick left and swing through a pair of airy roofs. The technical crux moves seem to be just below each roof.

Pitch 7 (5.7, 200'):

Heads straight up on moderate cracks to the top of the pillar.

Pitch 8 (4th class, 80'):

It is wise to stay roped for this pitch. Walk the plank to the summit ridge of Mount Gilbert, carefully passing the Jenga Gendarme on its left side.

Scramble up easy talus (2nd class) to the spectacular "Pride Rock" summit of Mount Gilbert.

Descent:

Walk down the Southeast Slope (2nd class) and cross the bowl to the notch above the East Couloir. Rappel or downclimb (ice axe usually required to downclimb) the East Couloir and stomp down the valley until picking up the Treasure Lakes trail. An alternate descent is to go down from Treasure Col instead of the East Couloir: this way goes, but it takes significantly longer.

Approach: about 2 hours.

As for the

Engram Couloir

. Hike a short ways up the Treasure Lakes trail, then break cross-country around the toe of Gilbert's northeast ridge. Walk into the Gilbert cirque and ascend moderate snow/talus to reach the base. The route starts a few hundred yards left (east) of the mouth of the

Engram Couloir

.

Double set cams to 3" + one 4" cam + single set nuts