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Peak Mountain 3

Beak to the Future

FA Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen, November, 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Beak to the Future starts about 30 feet right of Beaking in Tongues.

1st pitch involves some very run-out 5.10 climbing with no pro till you can place a couple small Peckers. Continue right passing a couple bolts to belay. Rock is good.

2nd pitch passes a couple bolts to a pretty good Beak seam/small cams as I remember. Maybe some free climbing? End pitch at two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 starts with a couple bolts and moves onto the Mud Shield crack system which is a total splitter to the end of the pitch.

Pitch 4 starts in a good crack that slowly gets wider till you hit the 5.10 squeeze crux.

Pitch 5 continues off left passing a fat crack and ends about 25 feet up the last pitch of Fantasia.

Follow Fantasia to the top.

Rap the route.

Rack:

5 x #1 Peckers

20 x #2 Peckers

15 x #3 Peckers

6 x Spectres

2 x cams small to #5


Routes in The Oracle