- Edit (TBD)
Description
Beak to the Future starts about 30 feet right of Beaking in Tongues.
1st pitch involves some very run-out 5.10 climbing with no pro till you can place a couple small Peckers. Continue right passing a couple bolts to belay. Rock is good.
2nd pitch passes a couple bolts to a pretty good Beak seam/small cams as I remember. Maybe some free climbing? End pitch at two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 starts with a couple bolts and moves onto the Mud Shield crack system which is a total splitter to the end of the pitch.
Pitch 4 starts in a good crack that slowly gets wider till you hit the 5.10 squeeze crux.
Pitch 5 continues off left passing a fat crack and ends about 25 feet up the last pitch of Fantasia.
Follow Fantasia to the top.
Rap the route.
Rack:
5 x #1 Peckers
20 x #2 Peckers
15 x #3 Peckers
6 x Spectres
2 x cams small to #5
Routes in The Oracle
- 2Beak to the Future5.10Trad · Aid