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Peak Mountain 3

Beaking In Tongues

FA Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Dave Levine April 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')

Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')

Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')

Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').

Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)

Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)

Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'

Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.

Location

Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.

Protection

Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.