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Peak Mountain 3

Cussing Fingers Variant

FA unknown
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This variation starts from the lower tier of the big ledge at the base of Cussin' Crack proper. From a fixed angle follow the crack system immediately right of the diheadral on Cussin' Crack (.9+). Join Sticky fingers just before attaining a bush covered ledge and follow that route to a two bolt anchor. This anchor should be backed up or avoided altogether as both bolts are 1/4". Pitch two (.9s) ascends up and left on slopers from the right end of the belay ledge. This is the same point where Western Pleasure and After Forever meet. A fixed lost arrow protects the first moves onto the face and a couple of TCU or Alien placements can be found before reaching a crack/flake that leads to the top.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed pins at the start of both pitches and double (1/4") bolt anchor at the end of pitch one. Walk off from the top.


Routes in Castle Rock


  1. 29
    Cussing Fingers Variant
    5.9+
    Trad
2000 km
1000 mi