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Peak Mountain 3

The Black Crack

FA unknown
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This obvious crack ascends the South Face of Castle Rock just to the right of

Tongo

and

Atlas Shrugged

. Good hand jams and a few awkward moves up the large crack lead to a left-facing dihedral 20 feet off the ground. Look for the fixed pin under the roof (use a long runner to clip it to avoid nasty rope drag) and finish to the right after pulling over the roof on large holds. There are 2 bolts at the top (only 1 is shown in the Rolofson guidebook).

Protection

An assortment of medium cams (up to a #2 Camalot), quickdraws for the anchor, and a fixed pin near the top.


Routes in Castle Rock


  1. 39
    The Black Crack
    5.9+
    Trad
1000 km
1000 mi