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Peak Mountain 3

death star

FA mikel cronin
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

death star is yet another fantastic route at the dark side. use the force wisely to prevent detonation of your forearms....

begin up a slightly overhanging section of tan rock that is a bit soapy/mungy, but quickly improves as it fades into a minor left facing seam/corner. the climbing is fairly continuous for 6 bolts or so - never too difficult, but never too easy either. catch a good rest and launch upwards into a bulging section on brilliant climbing with generally good hands and generally tricky feet. feel the hate flowing through your forearms as you race to the anchors.

this route is awesome. long, great climbing, mostly great rock, good protection (although you must use your senses to find the best clipping holds young jedi). the FA crew hit the jackpot with this one.

Location

from the left side of the dark side wall proper, walk about 150 feet to the west (climber's right). the cliff comes to it's nearest with the road here, just above a small shelf. there is a laser cut arete, and death star is the 2nd route to the left of the arete (with 'sith' being just left of the arete and 'tough love' being just right of the arete). it starts in mungy tan rock, up through a minor left facing seam/corner, and ultimately out a big bulge at the top.

Protection

around a dozen bolts and anchors. it is pretty long, so bring plenty of draws. most of the bolts are easily clipped from good holds (once you find them). anchors are open shuts, similar to many of the routes at the dark side.