black sunday

black sunday is a great little route at the dark side. this might be the best candidate for a first 12a route here, given its shorter length, lack of brutal tweaking pockets, and perfect protection.

begin through a steep, intimidating, yet surprisingly not too bad starting section on good pockets. this deposits you on a nice section of vertical rock. try to get a decent shake and a game plan before launching up into the sequential crux. from there, easier but not too easy climbing will take you to the anchors. don't worry too much about the orange lichen, there are 'almost' no holds in that zone...

this one is a tricky onsight (probably like many spearfish routes), but once you get it sorted out the climbing is pretty straight forward.

this route is around 120 feet (right) from the left end of the dark side wall, and approximately 50 feet left of the laser cut arete that makes up 'sith' and 'tough love'. this area has a little stone wall and shelf that houses the aqueduct pipe. black sunday is located just left of a big slot/chimney with a ton of orange lichen. the route itself has a fair amount of orange lichen in the top section, which helps in identifying it.

approximately 6 bolts and open shut anchors.