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Peak Mountain 3

Not for Loan

FA Jeff Morgan and Tony Zeek, 1975. FFA: Gib Lewis, Charles Cole, December 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up a ramp just right of the start of "Where Eagles Dare" until you reach a crack system beginning over a roof. The rock is a little chossy here but greatly improves once you pull over the roof and start angling up the crack. After about twenty-five feet of crack climbing comparable in steepness and difficulty to that on "Illusion Dweller," you reach a 'V' in the crack system. The original line takes the right crack and makes a long traverse to the same belay as for "Desert Song." Another option is to take the left crack straight up to a ledge, traverse right about six feet to a bolt, and make one or two face moves (.10a) in order to reach a set of anchors on "Where Eagles Dare."

A decent alternative to "Illusion Dweller" if that route is busy.

Location

On the West Face of The Sentinel, right of "Where Eagles Dare." Rappel to descend.

Protection

nuts and cams to 2.5"

Probably a good idea to equalize a "nest" of gear before pulling over the roof as the rock isn't great here and it's a ways to the ground.