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Peak Mountain 3

Desert Song

FA Roy Naasz and Chris Wegener, February 1970 (1st pitch only); FFA: John Bachar 1977(entire route)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Located on the awesome West face of the Sentinel lies this classic route which is located just right of center on the wall. It is visible as a vertical crack/seam which leads up to the right end of an impressive roof.

P1, 5.10 A0 or 5.11

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PG

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Start right at some yucca plants and climb the steep crack/seam past three bolts and three fixed heads until possible to traverse left to a bolted anchor. It is possible to rap from here (60 meter rope works best), but there is more fun ahead...

P2, 5.11b R

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​​​​ From the belay make some hard moves with so-so pro up and slightly right then back left to reach a hand crack perched at the lip of the previously mentioned roof. Once in the crack traverse left along the lip and up until you reach a vertical crack which leads to the top. Walk off to climber's right down slabs.

This is a true Josh classic that should be done by those comfortable at this grade, but be aware that the second pitch is heads-up. The first pitch (5.10 with aid or 5.11 free) is popular and often done without committing to the imposing second pitch.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), several fixed heads, gear to 3 inches