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Peak Mountain 3

More-nucopia

FA dunno, maybe Pinklebear
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a linkup of

Discipline

into

Cornucopia

that makes for the longest pitch on the coolest feature—the swooping slab to scoop—on the wall. It also tackles the funnest climbing on both routes—avoiding the heinous intro slab on

Cornucopia

and the weird topout on

Discipline

—and makes for a long, techy, crimpy journey.

Climb the first four bolts of

Discipline

(5.12), placing a No. 4 Camalot in the big hole below bolt 3. Put a long draw/extendo setup on the fourth bolt of

Discipline

, then make your way left on a crimpy traverse (5.11) toward the hole-rest on

Cornucopia

. It helps to have a long sling on bolt 2 of

Cornucopia

, as you might when redpointing it anyway, so you can clip off a good edge out right before you move into the hole. This reduces the spice factor.

Rest up in the hole, then climb the top four bolts of

Cornucopia

(5.13-) to the anchors.

Location

Begin on

Discipline

; finish on

Cornucopia

. Both routes are on the south face of The Box.

Protection

8 bolts plus a No. 4 Camalot to triple-bolt anchors.