Hand Crack

Go up a short hand crack in a right facing corner for about 10-15 feet, then crank up into an OW crack that moves up and right with a roof. Watch out for a couple loose flakes when moving into the wider crack. The OW is steep, and looks intimidating, but is only about 15 feet long. There is a nice lieback rail inside the crack, and a couple of knee-locks that keep it feeling like 5.9. It protected well with a #4 Camalot at a constriction in the crack. Above the crack, is a chockstone with a perfect #0.5 cam/red Alien slot. Continue another 20 feet or so to the summit, and belay from hand-sized gear.

This pitch climbs the north-west face of the box, and begins from the same block as

Aunt Jennifer's Tigers

. It starts about five feet to the left of that route, and goes up the obvious corner. It could be possible to mistake the 1st pitch of Stone Love (5.7, also a fun pitch) for this route, but, that route is more on the southwest face.

Descent: from the summit of the box, downclimb the east face through a fist crack (5.2?) for about 30-40 feet to a notch where you can continue on a ramp to the NW, and back to the base of the climb. With a traverse from the top of the climbing, you can also rig a TR on

Aunt Jennifer's Tigers

, or

Fact of a Door Frame

.

Hand sized pieces, plus a #4 Camalot. Optional #0.5 cam, or red Alien placement after the crack.