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Peak Mountain 3

Porch Pirate

FA Van Betten, Crawford, Mamusia - 1986
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Porch Pirate is a fun face climb that gets a lot of sun and has a really short approach - great for a winter afternoon. Soft rock and some so-so pro keep it head's up, but it is not overly dangerous for a seasoned climber comfortable at the grade.

The climb tackles the center of a nice triangular shield of rock above the classic Plumber's Crack boulder problem and left of Classic Crack of Calico. Scramble up to a ledge system from the right side to get to the start of the route.

Climb some steep, hollow rock to an obtuse corner - this section has pro of questionable quality, but there's enough to keep it sane. Above the corner, climb the nice varnished face past a few bolts to an anchor at the top of the wall.

Lower off with a 60m rope, or, with a 70m rope, you can skip the initial approach scramble (recommended).

Location

Above Plumber's Crack, left of Classic Crack of Calico.

Protection

1x to #2 Camalot, wires.A few bolts - some have been replaced but the two upper ones only have new hangers and the bolts themselves might be 3/8" split-shafts and not 3/8" wedge bolts (in other words, not the best) to a good bolted anchor.


1000 km
1000 mi