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Peak Mountain 3

Semi-Professional Moron

FA FRA: Andy Hansen & Gina Matranga, 2/8/2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

When looking at the Kraft Crags (identified as the 100-125 foot, pink cliff band directly above the talus field near the Kraft Boulders) from the Kraft parking lot the route is up and to the left. The primary landmark is easily identified as the significantly lower angled sunken pillar of rock. This route climbs the right facing corner crack of that feature.

Approach: Go into the Kraft boulderfield and pass the Cube heading east. Once at the Warm Up Boulders go directly up hill (north) and through a talus field. Once the talus field ends a 4th class move brings you to a fairly level platform. Once on this platform head to the east about 100 feet.

Pitch 1: The first pitch begins in a right facing corner finger crack. Once up to a small roof, move right into the adjacent left facing corner crack. From here pull another bulge on a few good pockets. Now this is where you move into the obvious left facing corner. Move into the LF corner (crux) then up the wide crack to a good belay stance. 5.9

Pitch 2: The handcrack up through the wide crack over a bulge. The rock on the adjacent faces is a bit crusty- be careful what you step on and/or pull down on. Pull through the bulge and climb over easy 5th class terrain to one bolt (?) and a gear belay. 5.10-

Descent: Scramble up through some low 5th class terrain trending west (left) until you've almost reached the summit. A very large boulder appears at the top of a gully. Scramble down the gully following the path of least resistance. Some sections are exposed but none of the down climbing is very difficult. Once you've reached a gravelly flat spot, head east (left) back to the base of the route.

This most certainly had been done before our ascent.

Protection

Single rack to 5". Doubles from 1"-3"