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Peak Mountain 3

The Flying Dutchman

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Description

The Flying Dutchman is a 1,600 foot couloir that climbs from the west end of Chasm Lake to the north edge of the Loft. To approach the climb, hike around the north side of Chasm Lake. When this route is in condition, it offers quality steep snow climbing punctuated by a short, 55 degree water ice crux.

Eds. note the consensus rating is not accurate due to the constraints of mixed rock, ice, and mixed climbing ratings. Sorry!

Protection

Most of this route is on steep snow. Pickets can be used and rock protection can be found along the west edge of the couloir. Two ice screws protect the crux ice.