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Peak Mountain 3

Field's Chimney

FA Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.

P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.

P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).

Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.

P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).

P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.

P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.

Location

The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.

Protection

Full single rock rack plus 4-6 stubby ice screws, some pins.