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Peak Mountain 3

Diablo Standard

FA unknown
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Description

This is the burly wide hands crack in the right-facing corner just right of La Naris.  (I'll only describe the 2nd pitch here... the original first pitch apparently sucked before it was thankfully cleaned and basically replaced by the line Start the Machine, described on its own page in the Runway section.)Approach by climbing either of the Runway routes Start the Machine or Mocos Locos or Boarding Pass and keep going above their anchor to gain blocky terrain and set a belay below the corner on ledges that are big enough to feel comfortable on.  The Mocos Locos anchor is a little bit higher up, so my gut feeling is to recommend that (but it is rated a little harder than Start the Machine).  There's an old fixed line/hand-line above the anchors.  Other Runway ciimbs might also work.  Or rap in, which is what I did.The first half of the pitch is not steep nor hard but kind of dirty; the 2nd half is clean.  Expect hard wide hands and fists in a flare/slot in the back of the big dihedral.  Due to the flare, it climbs more like an OW than a hands crack, at least at what I felt was the crux.  Anchor off trees set back on the mesa, or build a belay on the ledge 6' below the rim and dfu getting out.  Walk off (left); the La Naris anchor is too far below the rim to be reached to rappel from.

Location

Huge right facing corner right of La Naris.

Protection

rack from 0.4 camalot to #4 camalot, with extras from #2-#4, especially #3s