- Edit (TBD)
Description
Location
This is the right most crack on the headwall. To start, ascend to Observatory Ledge via several options. Climb Space Shuttle to the anchors, then up another 15' to the Observatory Ledge right anchors. Alternatively, look for a wide crack (10-) just left of Space Shuttle which might be a bit dirty or loose. Follow this pitch to ledges and traverse up and right to a nice 2 bolt belay above a large block stance the furthest right on the Observatory Ledge. Choose the right most belay for Luna Lumina.
From here, up and right through two bolts to the slab, then up to a thin crack just off the arete. Good mix of face and tips up great rock.
As of 2010, there are some bolts from Skyline Arete that have impinged on this route and are somewhat clippable from the crack. The first ascent party did not use these bolts to climb this crack free and so you shouldn't either. But the pucker-factor may sway you to the dark side once you are into the tips-madness. These bolts may be adjusted in the near future to keep us all honest.
Protection
Bring a few zero cams and small(not micro) wires and a few finger to hand sizes up to #3 Camalots. Single 60m rope works well.