East Couloir Variation

This is an alternative to the 4th Class Section of rock at the top of the East Couloir that allows one to climb the mountain mostly on snow. Park at Horton Lake trail head and ascend the slopes leading to the East Couloir. Ascend the couloir to the saddle. From the saddle traverse west over class 3 rocks descending slightly until reaching a steep face of snow on the south facing slope rising above a broad chute. Ascend until topping out just below the last 100 ft to the summit. An easy scramble up Class 2-3 rock leads to the summit.

The North Slope toward Horton Lake is a relatively safe descent option

Ice Axe, Crampons