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Peak Mountain 3

Right End Ledge

FA Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Two main purposes: To access mid-way anchors and routes in "Central Fins" and "Upper Right" that go up higher from this ledge. Or to set Top-Rope anchors for routes (e.g. "Affordable Care") starting below on the ground and finishing near this ledge.

Some thoughtful moves along the way (and some variations more thoughful).

directions

: Start on the right side of the outside corner that forms the far right edge of the lower wall of sector Dostie, below a bolt. Up the corner, at first on its right side, then perhaps some clever switching back and forth, to figure out how to attain standing on ledge just above 2nd bolt and then 3rd bolt. Horizontal left on this ledge and past a 4th bolt and step down a little just after passing 5th bolt . (or step down after 4th bolt, then termporarliy up to clip 5th bolt).

. . Variation: more interesting and difficult is to go left and up after passing 5th bolt.

Horizontal left until under the two-bolt anchor at the bottom start of the route "Upper Right Corner Crack", then up to that first mid-way anchor.

. . Variation: For a tricky challenge (much harder like 5.9), instead continue traversing left (balancy and slopy hands) under perched rock, then up on the left side of rock.

From the first mid-way anchor, make a rising traverse up left through several steps to reach bolt.

. .  More interesting and a bit harder is to traverse non-rising horizontal left from anchor to reach bolt in corner (for the route "Upper Right Face", and up the corner  to reach a ledge just left of a bolt (for the main route "Right End Ledge").

Finish horizontal Left to reach two-bolt mid-way anchor which is bottom start for route "CF Right Groove".

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Outside corner that forms the far right edge of the lower wall of sector Dostie.

See Z on this Photo

Protection

5 bolts to first mid-way bolt anchor then additional 1 bolt to reach second bolt anchor -- so total of

7 intermediate protection points.

One or two of the bolts are positioned to protect the

follower

from taking a big swing sideways if they fall. So don't forget to place draws and clip them just because the Leader does not need that directional protection.

First mid-way anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-climbing rope, with rappel ring.

. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel. Lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

For details on second mid-way anchor, see the route "CF Left Ledge".

. . (Intermedate bolts and hangers are all 304 Stainless steel. Installed 2018).