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Peak Mountain 3

Guanobita

FA TR Luke Wolcott
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Interesting route if you want to practice off-width and squeeze chimney - (if only it were longer).

Just go up the crack.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.

Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on

sector 8 description page

.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Wide crack (more than a foot wide at bottom) about 16 feet left from right (S) end of sector wall.

Just right of a narrower crack which is just right of a wide alcove.

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see Dostie sector 8 routes Photo

| |

lower R cracks Photo

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Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionist felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack, augmented perhaps larger stuff for the lower crack.

Top-Rope: Various rock holes or horns available for top anchor.

For access to top of cliff see ideeas on

sector 8 description page

.