- Edit (TBD)
Description
An old testpiece that would have been an impressive lead before modern trad gear. Modern small cams provide reasonable protection in a couple key locations. This route was restored and moderated to make it a reasonable lead. A bolt was added to manage the ground fall potential gaining the original first bolt.Start as for Narrow Gauge (optional hand size cam) and move left at the obvious jug rail to gain the first bolt. Technical, thin climbing leads past a bolt, a gear placement, and another bolt. A stark crux moves through a right-leaning crack (critical medium sized stopper) and a move left into a right-facing crack/flake and a bolt. Powerful moves lead to a welcome jug rail and a micro cam horizontal. Hold on for a few more moves to a lower off station straight up through the quartz jug rail. It's likely also possible to move left to the anchor on Turk Turk McGurk.
Location
Middle of the wall, immediately left of the crack system of Narrow Gauge.
Protection
Four bolts, small gear, optional hand sized cam, bolted anchor.