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Peak Mountain 3

Dislocation Buttress

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Description

This climb starts right where the swamp slab trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious crack/chimney that extends about 100ft up the wall. That's your first pitch. The route then follows a short traverse left to the next belay. After that its straight up with the exception of a short hand traverse on pitch 4. If you avoid the traverse and head up a seam on the left, it's dislocation direct (5.6). The last pitch is class 4 and then walk/scramble off to the left. Take care at the top!All pitches except the first are short. You could run them together but there would be some rope drag. Hard work getting to the climb but worth the effort.

Protection

Excellent trad climb, no problems finding bomber placements in good rock. Belay ledges are well protected also but look out for some doubtful sounding flakes