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Peak Mountain 3

L' Anniversaire

FA John Strand and Rose O'Brien July 1985
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the "directissima" of Rainbow! Few will feel compelled to do P1 or P3. Be aware: the brown streak is due to a powdery, black-brown, mossy-lichen that grows in what is the main water channel for his part of the cliff. If it hasn't been brushed recently, the last few moves can be REALLY un-nerving! This is usually the last climb to dry in the spring.

P1- START at the very toe of the cliff, climb straight up the lower slab in a line directly below the dark brown streak above (just to the right of the bright orange of True Colors). Belay with gear at the "launch ledge".  100 +/- ft  5.3 X   Alternately, use the scramble to "launch ledge". 

P2 - Up the brown streak, perhaps using the flake/crack for one gear placement before the "real deal". This "baby" gets progressively thinner as you climb higher. Don't "blow out" your foot placements reaching for the handhold at the top. The original 1/4" bolts at the belay stance, placed directly in the watercourse, are horribly rusted so move a bit right to a new anchor out of the worst of the water-course.  120 Feet  5.8 or 5.8+ definitely "X"  ( 5.8- PG/ 5.7X if you step right near the top and clip the bolt and finish on the adjacent climb to the right.) 

P3 - To the top  5.4 +/- 

Descend -  Rap with two ropes from the trees, or with two ropes from the new double bolt anchor at the top of P2. (a single 70 meter JUST  makes it to the "launch Ledge".

Protection

Medium cam for optional flake/crack