Rubberneck

Another of the Paul Ross-Cathcart climbs of AUG 7 '73. Perhaps by now Paul's belayer was wishing for a "rubber" neck?!

P1 is not "bad", but if it was as nice as P2 I'd give the whole route 3 stars.

START- 50 FT above where the main path meets the slab is a long, arching overlap. From the left end of the overlap the climb "Building Steam" climbs the first weakness, a wide, sort-of-flaring inside corner with a fixed wire nut. "Pencilneck" climbs through the arch at the second weakness, about 6 to 8 feet right of "Building Steam", and RUBBERNECK climbs through flakes 20 +/- ft further right. SEE PHOTO of this large overlap POSTED to PENCILNECK GEEK

P1- Climb up the slab any way you wish and head for the gap with several flakes about 2/3rds of the way along the overlap. (Photo) Go through these (gear, 5.4 - 5.5 +/-) and continue along the weakness to the left until reaching the tree ledge. 170 +/-ft 5.4-5.5 [The FA party, with 150/165 ft ropes  belayed in the "weakness" above the overlap. ]

P2- Move back right 12-15 ft, out of the trees, make a step up to a natural thread (photo), then face climb (5.6 PG/R, Var1) up right-ish to a small flake with gear ( small cams). Step right, (Var 2) then up and back left a bit, continuing up the face (5.6 R, crux) to a hidden stance. Step back left and climb (40 ft?) up to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 ft 5.6 R [Note: Of course, there's no guarantee that this was the exact route of F.A., but it's nice climbing and fits the grade.]

P3 - (Not often done) Up easy, but somewhat mossy slab to the top. 100 +/- ft  5.3-5.4 Rap with 1 rope back to the dbl bolt anchor.

Variation 1- This avoids the first 5.6PG/R face. Climb up left-facing flakes to the left of the thread, then step back right to regain the regular route.

Variation 2 - After the small flake, step left to a thin ( 1 inch thick) grey flake; then up this and the thin face above ( 5.8 / 5.8+). Rejoin the original route to the anchor.

NOTE: See also the "Pushing the Pencil" variation  of P2 of Pencilneck Geek as a better protected P2.

Descent- If not doing P3, rap, or lower, from the anchor to the tree ledge. Here, rap from the "Making Steam" rap tree, which is 10-12, or so, feet down in the island. With two ropes from the double bolt anchor it is possible to reach the P1 anchor of Littoral Zone, then 2 ropes to the ground. This avoids the tree ledge.

Modern rack with some small TCU's