Peak Mountain 3

Wormhole Formation, The

Description

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A 2-5 pitch tall formation with magnificently pocketed capstone, and some somewhat scary blocky rock beneath.The arch itself is pretty interesting. I made an attempt to bolt a sport route on the right side of the arch top down (after climbing the NW ridge). After aiding in on RBs through the huge high roof, I was impressed with the sport potential on the headwalls. I started bolting a first pitch that would tackle a ton of steep ground on the right side, through the blocky lower band. This was pretty quickly abandoned as I felt the amount of cleaning involved wasn't worth it. I'm not convinced the roof of the arch would clean up, given the amount of gluing I'm willing to do or hours one would need to spend banging stuff with a crowbar. Ive seen way worse stuff turn out really safe and fun though so do as you feel.Not sure how feasible or worthwhile it would be, but if someone put the work in it would for sure yield some of the steepest climbing in Oregon in a beautiful spot.The East side of the formation is mostly vert, seems to be 100-150m tall, and could hold some very technical multipitching on seemingly good rock.


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