Peak Mountain 3

Face Mountain

Description

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Hike up to Lost Lake via a well established trail off of the Dyea road. From here, you will have to do some route-finding and heavy bushwacking to hit the ridge that leads south towards the obvious glacier. We went into the forest between the two lakes and just kept walking straight and up, more or less through the path of least resistance.This was a little soul-crushing but from the ridge, route finding becomes much more straightforward. The toe of the glacier is very easy to get on. The glacier is fairly mellow, not very steep, but does have a few crevasses that were becoming apparent. Head to the col between the 2 rocky peaks and face mountain in on your left. There are a few "sub peaks" that can be climbed. The one we climbed was a single pitch of 5.6ish, 20m that had great cracks to put pro in. Can't remember the exact pieces but we carried a set of nuts and Cams (.75, 1, 2, 3) and easily had enough. A single rap gets you back down. There is a single sling around a rock that we used, but I would take some cordelette and maybe some rap rings to clean things up a bit! We would've but left the coredlette at the bottom of the last slope...WHoops! Total time : 14-16hrs car to car. Beauty views of Lynn Inlet and the Mtns behind Dyea. All and all a great moderate alpine climb!


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