Right Side

This side is decisively harder because the wall is pretty much continuous and very overhung. Set a top rope here and the bottom of your rope will be a good 10ft out from the base of the wall. This not only makes the climbing tougher, but you become like Superman if you come off and it’s hard to get back to the wall. It’s best to be lowered and start again. Now that there’s a sport route here, the flying effect is eliminated but the overhang is not.

This wall offers a great variety of TR ascent options but beware, there’s only one set of anchors above. What I do, and recommend, is using a self-equalizing setup with a cordelette called a Sliding X. This allows the masterpoint to be moved across the top edge to accommodate these varied route options - but only slightly. If you go too far either way you’ll really feel like Superman!