Climb the left side of the boulder on the slightly overhanging side.

Mickey's

Radish

Let's Face It

Fairy Traverse

Slab Stick

Iron Cross

Fairy Rings

Misfit

Fruit Market

The Loop

Tutti Fruitti

Fairies Only

Fairyation

Start on the left side of the blocky section.

Climb the blocky side of the boulder on the right side.

Let's Face It is the route next to the slab.

Fairy Traverse is a traverse route that goes around almost all of Fairy Rock. The route starts on the side of the boulder that is closest to the parking lot. From this point, you go all the way around to the left and end right before the really mossy part. The beginning is the easiest, and from that point on, it gets harder and harder. The start is a V0, and the end is a V6.

Start over the left side of the overhang.

Start on the back of the boulder to the right.

Start near the overhang on the right side.

This rock is listed in both Rock 'n Road and Boston Rocks. IMHO, this is not worth the effort of finding this chunk of rock. Toula describes it as "Unbelievable. Horizontal pile. Feeble." It is included for completion and perhaps to save you the gas or effort. It seemed only 6-10 feet tall. Funny, there is even a separate listing at the New England bouldering website for this rock! Apparently, the rock is owned by the town. Supposedly, it is the largest boulder in the area.

 L->R (starting at the S end, going clockwise):

 A. Slab Stick, V0. B. Let's Face It, 4 or V0-. CD. Fairyation, 6 or V1. D. Fairy Rings, 8 or V2. E. Fruit Market 7+ or V2. F. Tutti Fruitti, 7 or V3.

North Face G. Misfit, 9 or V1. H. Fairies, Only, 10- or V3. I. Iron Cross, 10 or V3. J. Radish, 9 or V2. K. The Loop, 8 or V1.

East Face L. Mickey's, 6 or V1.

This is a combination of submissions. We consolidated to avoid confusion and improve quality.

Description

Routes in Bates Boulder aka Fairy Rock