Start just left of Brilliant Corners. Climb up the overhanging crack placing gear to a high first bolt. Comtinue wandering up the face past two more bolts. Move to the left side of the overlap to a tree. Follow the flake up and right to the tree ledge.

Rootie Tootie

Count Down

Fly Away

Brilliant Corners

Straight, No Chaser

The airy moves on the steep wall towards the top of this climb make it worthwhile.   Start in the alcove just to the right of "Straight, No Chaser."  Take the easiest route up (past a bolt) to a break at 2/3 height.  There are two big precarious blocks just sitting on this break.  Try as best you can not to touch them as you pull onto the final steep face.  Tricky face moves past a 3-4 bolts (crux) lead to the top of the cliff, and a big tree.

Interesting moves down low bring you past two bolts and up onto a sloping ledge. Move up the sloping ledge and start up great holds on the overhang. High third bolt. Don't pull too hard on the flakes. They are feeling pretty hollow.

The start is pumpy and bouldery, and can be protected with a #4 Friend. Pull over the small roof onto the slab above. Follow the finger crack in the huge corner until it ends. Step left to another , shorter finger crack (pin)to another roof. Protect, and get ready for the crux. Pull over the roof on the right into another corner (pin), very sequential. Head up and left to a two bolt anchor w/ rap rings.

 Note 2020 COMMENT that states: "The flake feature off the ground, specifically the part with the obvious hold from which you place the big cam, is threatening to part ways with the cliff. Ditto for the huge left foot jug under the roof nearby. I would have attempted to trundle, but didn’t have the time."  R Hall NH Admin.                                                    

One of the best 5.8s here.  Up the blunt arete past bolts and a pin to a small ledge.  You can either wimp right to a 5.6 chimney, or place some marginal gear (small alien and/or .75 camelot in a weird position) and keep heading up the arete on nice edges and rails.

Home of the classic climb of the same name, this area has almost a dozen 1-2 pitch climbs from 5.6-5.10c, mostly put up by George Hurley.  Almost all of the routes are a mix of traditional and bolt protection.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 02. Brilliant Corners