This route has some sustained difficult climbing right off the ground. Start at a right-angling crack, laybacking your way up. The main crux is at the second clip. Pull through the roof with some good holds out left. The technical face climbing is sustained until the 8th clip, and you are home free after that. Rockfall is a possibility, so wear your helmets; however, if you stay in the dark streaked rock, none of the holds you need should peel.

Cosmic Anosmia

Bell Curve A.K.A. Silent But Deadly

First Time Out

Butter Face

Lunch Bucket? (dubbed No Se)

Groove Tube

Viper Room

Test Drive

Ze Boom Boom Room

Past Tense

Rain of Terror

New Arete AKA Entrance Exam

Lunch Bucket A.K.A. Romper Room

Tropical Depression

Keep On Keepin' On

Mullet Days

California Stars

Grilled Cheese aka Burger

Right of Test Drive

Groove Is In The Heart

Guiding Light

Dirty, Rotten Scoundrel

Thunder Thighs

Climb straight up the steep pillar via side pulls pinches, slaps (powerful) to an eventual crimp that aids in gaining a nice rest ledge just under a scoop/overhang.  Next move up and left into a small dihedral that leads up and out of the scoop/overhang (technical) until you reach a nice jug.  From here, traverse left via small crimps (start crux-to end) and delicate, hidden foot placements.  This will lead you to a serious of left handed side pulls and lay backs (powerful) to the chains.

This is a short but enjoyable route.  This would be a really good starting lead as it is closely bolted and is of an easy grade.

As the name suggests, this is a great climb until you reach her FACE. Slabby, washed out rock makes for interesting holds as the rock is incredibly smooth from weathering. Then, about 15 feet below the top the real fun begins....

Because this climb wasn't on MP, I accidentally climbed it to set up toprope for the girlfriend thinking it was a 5.9+.

Climb up the slightly overhanging face into a corner.  Then move right onto the arete and jug haul to the top.  Balancy, short, and fun.

Climb up the longer water groove on the left wall.  This has fun moves with good stemming.  It is longer than most of the routes in the alcove. Fun.

This is a bouldery little route to the left of

Ze Boom Boom Room

. It starts off with a tricky little boulder problem that ends around the 4th bolt. Then it is 5.11 climbing (that is a little contrived) to the top. The original first bolt went away with the massive flake it was drilled into. It would be a good idea to stick clip the first bolt (previously the 2nd).

Climb up the slab with moves that look harder than they are.  Pass one short steep section to the first two bolt anchor. If you want, continue up the slab to a good stance.  Then one final mantle to the left brings you to a large ledge with a second two bolt anchor.

Pretty much the best 5.11 at the Pool Wall. Steep, balancey, juggy and a no hands rest just before clipping the anchors, right at the steepest part of the wall. Don't be put off by all the glue!

Climb up past a few good slabby sections to the top.

This route was put up recently by Eric Wright with stainless steel bolts and hangers, so it'll be the shiny ones whereas the older routes will be rusty (from being in line with the waterfall).  The first half is slick while the upper section is fun edges and friction.  Note: the stainless steel bolts and 3-bolt anchor are a welcome addition to this area but of course more expensive.  Help him out if you meet him out there!

This route is still pretty dirty, so watch for small rocks as you ascend. Overall, It is a nice and easy route with a well-protected crux just before you top out.

Climb through a low roof/scoop via odd stems and compression moves.  This route was given the name "Romper Room."  But when I bolted in 2003-2004, I called it "Lunch Bucket."  It shares the same chains with "

No-Se

."

This is one of the driest route in Ouray, certainly for the grade. It's a squeeze job in between our other route to the right, Dirty Rotten Scoundrel and the outstanding

Ze Boom Boom Room

to the left. When everything else is dripping wet, this one is often dry, and it faces south, so it dries quickly if it's been pouring out.  Further, unlike some other steeper routes in the alcove that also might be dryish, the anchors on this climb do not become wet before the rest of the route. So, if it's raining out, don't despair.

Climb up the wall on pockets and edges. Getting started is the crux.

Mullet Days is dirty, awkward, but hey, if you're breaking into the grade, you can set a TR and grumble about this one.... If, however, more people ignore this description and clean this bad boy up, maybe it becomes palatable?

Climb up moves utilizing some pockets. It is short.

This route is listed as Burger 5.8, I've also heard it called Grilled Cheese. In reality, it is a very easy 5.5, well-protected, and makes a good introductory lead.

If you already lead

Test Drive

to the top, the guidebook says you can also toprope the right face (the book calls this a 10 variation, but offers no more information). The face can be dusty/crumbly in places, and there is not really a defined route (yet), but there are some interesting moves, and it is a totally different route from the standard, excepting the final mantel, which both share.

The crux is moving past the last bolt to the anchors.  It is fun and short.

This is one of the better 'easy' routes in the alcove. Scramble up the loose slope at the left border of the alcove to get to the start. Follow 11 bolts to an anchor. There is a second pitch.

This a left-leaning, shallow, dihedral ramp. You can do this route in so many different ways. You can stem or face climb to the left of the seam. Half the route is rotten and chossy.

The extension above first anchor is 11c; take an orange TCU for the big hueco moving off the ledge. The lower section stays dry in the rain.

This route is listed as "unknown 5.8" on the main page for the Pool Wall. It's a fairly short route but has good sustained difficulty the whole way. The crux is perhaps between the first and second bolt before mellowing out a bit toward the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Alcove