This variation finish turns a good route into a great one.

Climb the crux of Single Cat Leg, then hand traverse right on a rail to an extended move right into an overhanging seam. Clip a bolt, then climb a bouldery sequence through slightly overhanging rock to jugs. Move left to a shelf with a 2-bolt anchor.

Tricky, sustained, technical, and pumper at the finish, on great rock; this little gem is at the top of my list of "Best Trad Leads" in Rock Garden Valley.

Turning Tricks

Blue Sky, Black Death

The Treat

Mr. Michael goes to Washington

Marion Barry Goes to Washington

Single Cat Leg (aka Why Does it Hurt When I Pee?)

Swiss Cheese

Cuban Sandwich

Black Plague

What's Hannen

Double Fisting

Climb the tricky thin crack on the left side of the formation, finishing with an easier handcrack.

This route climbs from a ramp at the base of the walls rightmost promminent crack/chimney  feature,sharing the start with neighboriong climb to the right " Barn Door Left ". BSBD  climbs  up and left on easy 5th to the crux section( 5.6), 2 sections of OK cracks to the top.

Well worth doing if in the area, this fun route starts up a flake to reach the generously protected upper face which is sort of an easy version of

Bebop Tango

. Two stars out of five.

Gear belay and downclimb to climber's left.

Start on right leaning crack which then travels up a vertical crack with a slight left jog then straight up to the summit.

Climb the face between Mr. Michael Goes to Washington and Blue Sky Black Death.

Start just left of Blue Sky Black Death with a few face moves up to a discontinuous thin crack, then step left and climb a steep friction slab, with a mantle past a horizontal just before the finishing moves.

Scramble up easy rock to a ledge and then climb cracks to access the juggy face above. Follow the largest and most obvious jugs up to a single bolt and continue straight up (5.8) or cut left via easier terrain (5.6).

This variation climbs the varnished face of a small pillar between What's Hannen and Swiss Cheese. The crux is well-protected, on great rock. Finish with an easier but runout face (5.6 R) up to the bolt on Swiss Cheese for a 5.8 finish.

Gear anchor: CD's from 2 to 4 inches.

Rather than cutting left in the alcove up the hand crack, it goes straight up the gully through the flared offwidth to chimney as it widens and you search for small hand edges that rarely appear and wrong angled smears on the bulge to the left.

An awkward exit from an alcove (crux) leads to a hand crack, and then to some easier steep face climbing.  This route is in shade most of the time.

Starts off with a variety of easy hand cracks at the base. As you move up the first 20 feet or so you will find a dual crack system that is perfect for hand jams. Continue to the small alcove near the top, and at this point you have the option to enter an offwidth crack or traverse right for a section of slab. Belay your partner up from the alcove, and walk to the bolted anchors atop Mr. Michael Goes to Washington.

Description

Protection

Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Middle