If you are climbing the SE Ridge of Middle Teton, and are making good time, this

variation

will add 2-3 interesting pitches, in a spectacular position, to the uppermost portion of the route. (The entire SE Ridge, with or without this variation, remains a Grade III.)

As you finish pitch 7 of the standard SE Buttress route (as shown  in the Ortenburger/Jackson guide, page 143) you will find yourself on a low angle section of ledges and broken rock, roughly 2 pitches below the South Summit. The "seasonal snow patch" will be to climber's right.

Walk

South (climbers left)

on this ledge, and you will see a prominent curving dihedral, which comprises the first pitch.

Pitch 1: Climb the curving  dihedral (hand crack, 120 ft, 5.8?,) and belay in a deep chimney above the dihedral.

Pitch 2: Ascend chimney (a few loose blocks) and belay at chockstone (75 ft, 5.9ish face climbing to get around chockstone).

Pitch 3: Continue up chimney (5.9?) to a blocky ledge.

(You may be able to combine pitches 2 and 3.)

Easy climbing leads to South summit. We rappelled off South Summit in order to reach the North Summit, where you begin the usual descent via South Couloir.

I recommend this variation

only

if you finish pitch 7 with plenty of time and energy left. The standard Buckingham (SE Buttress) route stands on its own, and does so very well!

NOTE: the  previously published description of the standard SE Buttress/ridge fails to note  that the climb is usually accessed via the Ellingwood Couloir, which usually has moderately steep snow in it, and that most climbers will want footwear suitable for firm snow and an ice axe for the approach.

South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton

North Ridge

Ellingwood Couloir

Beyer South Ridge

Northwest Ice Couloir

Middle Teton Glacier Route

Buckingham (SE) Ridge

Dike route

Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face

Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge

Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega-Motter on Han's Wall

Dike Pinnacle North Face

Chouinard Ridge

Southwest Couloir

From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon.  The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below).  This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.

The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch.  Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer.  From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower.  Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit.  You can bypass the South Summit on the right if you like.

It is not easy to get off the South Summit, to continue do a short rappel into the notch towards the main summit and then walk to the main summit.

From the Lower Saddle, head southwest up and over to the base of the North Ridge:

1) The first major features you encounter are 2 large pinnacles. Traverse the first one, which is called Pinnochio Pinnacle, on its west side. Go on the east side of the second higher one, named Bonney's Pinnacle.

2) On the far side of Bonney's (south), you'll see a notch that's been formed by the erosion of a small dike. Climb up out of the notch, (easy) and head towards a ledge that leads around on the left side of the ridge. Traverse along on the ledge for approximately 50 feet until it ends, passing one smaller ledge that heads to the right, before heading to the right on another larger ledge for about 60 feet to a cave-like notch (room) in the ridge.

3) The easiest way out of the so-called room is to descend a few feet to some ledges below and to the east. Then traverse to the west (right) along these ledges into the gully, which you follow up and around the crest of the north ridge until you are near the left edge of the northwest gully.

4) Stay on the right side of the north ridge and in or near the northwest gully, following the path of least resistance up until you are in the Blake Dike. Turn left (east) and carefully ascend the crumbling slope of the Black Dike to the sharp notch at the top. In late 9/86, JHMG, Mark Whiton and I had to kick steps. A storm the night before laid down about 4 inches of snow and caused verglas to form on the upper 1000 feet of the Grand. Therefore, this climb became our objective. In the winter-like conditions, climbing out of the notch was the crux for us. Mark started high and led through a 5.8 move. Down a little and to the right you can climb out of the notch on 5.5 broken rock.

5) Above the notch, (a bolt and good horizontal crack provided belay). From there easy ledges and slabs go up and around to the east and to the north (true) summit. When Mark and I reached it, we were alone. The wind died and while huge flakes still floated down, the sun came out. Icefloe Lake below just sparkled. Then a party of four ascending the Southwest Couloir (3rd Class) soon joined us.

Most probably downclimb the Southwest Couloir. We traversed back north along the east side of the main summit block -- great view of the whole south side of the Grand -- where a gap allows you to head left (west) back over to the top of the black dike notch. We rapped from there into the dike notch and retraced the North Ridge route back to the Lower Saddle.

The Ellingwood Couloir was the FA route for the Middle Teton. When in condition it makes for a good ski mountaineering line or steep snow climb. In the summer the couloir is laden with wet kitty litter slabs,  and rock fall; this can make accessing the Buckingham Buttress a bit tricky.

From the TH to the summit is about 6,000ft, with 2,000ft of climbing. Take the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the south side of the Middle Teton. Ascend up the couloir with snow up to 45deg, you join the Middlle Glacier route and continue up steep snow and 5.5 rock. The easeast descent is the SW Couloir.

Climbs a steep step to a ridge that leads to the Dike Pinnacle.  See topo

The Northwest Ice Couloir is a great alpine outing that involves moderate rock, snow and ice climbing in an outrageous setting.  It even tops out a literal hex toss distance from the summit of the Middle Teton.

The route gets icier (and better) later in the season.

2-6 pitches.  Depending on how you choose to run the pitches, this could go in as little as 2 with a lot of simul-climbing.  (We did it in 3 with a big simul in the middle for pitch 2.)

The route apparently has the nickname "Harry's Highway". (Curious as to where that came from if anyone knows.)

Descend the Southwest Couloir via Class 3.

The obvious route while approaching the Lower Saddle.  Climb the left side of the upper tongue, avoiding the huge crevasse that opens up mid to late season.  At the col between Dike Pinnacle and the main summit, the snow/ice usually ends, turn right and rock climb to the top.

Goes to the summit with lots of snow, rock, and some down climbing. Check the Climbers Guide to the Teton Range for more info.

From the Lower Saddle, traverse around the West side of this pinnacle to the notch between it and Bonney's Pinnacle. Pass beneath a large gap and climb a face with many features to the summit. I soloed the route so am unsure of the gear, but don't fall.

From the Lower Saddle, traverse Pinocchio Pinnacle on the West, go through the notch between the two pinnacles, and climb easily the east and south sides of this small tower. It is a straightforward scramble on good rock. I soloed it so am unsure of the gear, but don't fall.

The North Wall of the Middle Teton, accessed from the glacier, is a hard rock, north wall, mini paradise. The access ramp has been scrubbed by avalanches and water drips. There are tundra flowers and clean, overhanging rock.

Only Taylor has been climbed to the summit. The others have been climbed to the “end of the difficulties". The 5.13 has 1 pitch outstanding. The ground above the wall is mostly 4th and 5th class.

None the less there is good climbing and you can “easily” rappel back to your crag kit and sneaker crampons with 1 Rope.

There is also north wall hazards, including avalanche, wet rock, sharp rock, icefall and etc.

P1  Clean blocky gray rock turns into a slightly loose LF dihedral. Step left past two roof/bulges (5.8) into a 5.9 hand crack. Belay on a slanted ledge below a large solid horn. ~40m

P2  Start up toward the obvious large blocky RF dihedral, but take the ramp about 10' up right to avoid the large blocky loose dihedral. Instead, step left to undercling flakes (5.8) to reach next right-tending ramp to LF 5.9+ dihedral. Belay on small ledge. ~40m

P3  Continue straight up LF 5.9 dihedral to ledges and mantles. Pull on a well-attached flake (5.8) into steep terrain and into a RF dihedral (5.9). Belay just right of some blocks on right-leaning ramp. ~45m

P4  Scramble up right-leaning ramp for about 20', then straight up steep cracks to flakes (5.9). Steep, but easier terrain above, then head left on ramp to a final 5.9 hand / stem. A thin, no-pro dihedral about 30' out on initial right-leaning ramp is off-route...step back down about 10'. ~50m

Either finish with the Dike Route (not trivial) from the summit of the Dike Pinnacle (grade IV to summit of Middle), or descend the pinnacle east back to the lower glacier.

This route starts half-way up the Middle Teton glacier, making for a mini-alpine climb. The climbing is consistent, with many cruxes on good rock. Slightly dirty, until more folks climb it. Only the slightly loose beginning detracts from the overall good quality.

A beautiful climb, on good rock.

The route climbs the ridge to the left(west) of the Buckingham Ridge. Lots of options along the ridge. Gain the ridge from the couloirs on either side, snow through much of the season. Once melted out these couloirs become fairly hazardous, with significant loose rock. The rock is good quality along the crest of the ridge. There are many options on the ridge.

This is the standard route on the Middle Teton.  From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon.  Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail.  Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit.  If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed.  It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly.  I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you.  Helmets recommended!  The couloir tops out very near the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Teton