Jam the flake as it gradually widens into a liback (large cam helpful) then exit left into a scooped-out section on the south face and finish via a perfect 1 1/4" splitter in desert varnish.

This is an ideal warm-up route for it's neighbor and is a climb to seek out if wanting some practice on the dreaded 1 1/4" size. The rock is good, the moves varied and the pro more than adequate. Two stars out of five.

Happy Happy, Joy Joy

Rots O' Rock

Coarse and Buggy

Thin Line

Hazing Incident

Couldn't Wait

How 'bout It?

The Sowsuckle

Just right of the Coarse and Buggy dihedral is a wide overhanging face. This route ascends a steep and somewhat junky looking crack at the far left side of this wall, just a couple yards right of Coarse and Buggy.

The party we saw climb this said it was good. Vogel gives it no stars. I haven't climbed it, but wouldn't be surprised to see more people on it now that it's bolted.

The first bolt is high. There's some gear before it but it may or may not keep you off the ground. A stick clip might be advisable.

This route is among many people's favorite climbs at J-Tree and I would have to say that it's the coolest single pitch I've done at the Tree.

Locate the stunning left-facing dihedral which faces the road...you can't miss it. A toprope can be set up top without too much trouble, which means the climb is likely to be swarmed by a TR-ing mob from time to time.

The climb can either be started by climbing easily in from the boulder on the left or via a direct start (5.10). The crux (5.11-) comes right away with in a very technical stemming corner with little in the way of hands (RPs, black alien). Stem up the amazing corner to a section of good hand jams and rest as best you can. A second crux comes at the top pulling around a small roof the caps the dihedral (10+). Continue to the top of the formation where a good anchor can be set with large nuts and hand-sized cams.

Walk off to the right, picking your way down ledges to circle back left to the base.

On the upper right side of the formation is a overhanging finger crack to a ledge 3/4 up the formation.  Note that there is an unfinished two bolt line to the left which is indicated as this route in the '92 Vogel guide.

Jam up to a ledge below a short left facing corner.  There seems to be two possibilities to start, the left of which is the most straightforward.  From the top of the corner jam left on the imposing finger crack.  Past the crux the finger crack eases into more of a layback.  The overhanging nature of the route makes it unforgiving of mistakes or a willingness to try and overprotect.

The descent is via a scrappy chimney up and then around the back of the formation.

From elevated starting ledge, ascend left-slanting crack to a featured face section, to connect to a straight topout crack.

Info courtesy of

Widefetish.com

This is a good route with cool moves low and fine example of squeeze chimney up high.

The various guidebooks (Vogel, Bartlett) have lines all over this crag, none really describing this route. The actual Couldn't Wait is rumored to start on the two bolt face to the right of the pillar, and then wanders back over to the wide. Climb the corner instead of the two bolt face.

Be wary of the fake loose block in the starting corner. You can pro below the block and the moves around it are not hard.

Our crew did the wide right side in and left side in. Pick your poison.

If you have the hips of a Thai crossdresser, you can get right inside the chimney from the get-go and stay in there. If you are more voluptuous, the constriction at the start will force you to the outside.

Descent is off the back heading South to SouthWest down some ledges and ramps.

This is a fun climb with good pro.  The first half is steep face past two bolts to a finger crack.  Continue past a ledge to a steep grainy face with four bolts, tricky getting started.

This route is shown on Russ' Limp Wristed beta photo on the right side labeled "Gerbie/Borne Face Route".

Face climbing and shallow corners (10c) lead to a particularly blank section of steep face between the 3rd and 4th bolts (12a/b). Height may be a factor in pulling the crux moves. Above, a shallow crack in a corner leads to easier moves to the top.

After the first (top rope ascent) a key knob broke off, rendering the crux moves significantly harder.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dihedral Rock - East Face