Really easy and continuous lieback/stemming, with tons of face feet. Crux is how much do you trust those blocks at the top?

Stars Next Door

Unkown

Straight Split

Homer's Odyssey

Crescent Crack

Fun Flared Chimney

Hercules

Splitter Fingers

Double Chunk

Underpull Pillar Route

Short but Steep Hands

Burly Hands in Flare

Bulge route

Jesus Saves

Searching for Stars

Solstice

Chinese Sun

Unconscious Contingency

Cerchunk Crack

Open Book

Second Crack

Awesome Arete

Flaky Jake

Pure Hand Jam

Tight Squeeze

Homer's Flake

5.11 Face

Pre-School

unknown arete

The Kings Highway

The Psycho

Holy Crack Batman!

Fingers through Bulges

Cracked Dish

Tick Tack

Pounded Nail

Wide Jam

Warm-up Crack

Happy Man

Kitzen Coyote

Nice face climb

Dew, Chalk, and Blood

Camino

Right on Joe

Nice splitter off the ground, and another at the top.

Fun and powerful moves on the arete and over the bulge. Not sure why this ones been collecting moss.  

Primarily thin hands into a short lieback section off the suspect flake up higher.

Awkward start (crux), easy the rest of the way.

Starts out fists and quickly widens, surprisingly doesn't take all that much offwidth technique because it's over quickly.

A very enjoyable chimney to climb, with a nice variety of face holds to work with. Probably a good first chimney. Vastly easier or harder depending on which side of your body you put in. Have fun.

This is the obvious and imposing 5 to 7 inch overhanging offwidth crack, the rightmost of the three prominent wide cracks on the same wall. 

  It's like a really, really miniature version of "Big Guy" at the Creek, same sizes and everything. 

  Name and grade come from the Falcon guide, take with a grain of salt.

Enjoyable sporty crack climbing, with face holds abounding.

Essentially the same crack size as "Straight Split," but with more features for feet and additional hands. Be careful as the flakey edges are quite friable.

If this had a better landing (or lower crux) it would be a classic highball boulder problem. The movement is excellent, and comes to a puzzling crux moving onto the slab (where it looks like it would be easy from the ground).

 Start from a thin low left hand pocket and right hand around the corner on a good opposing pocket. Squeeze your feet on and balance your way up the pillar to aforementioned onsight crux pulling onto the slab. Finish up the same 4 feet of easy crack as the adjacent routes.

Perfect hand jams up a steep crack just left of "Crescent Crack." Much less traveled, but very enjoyable in my opinion. If only it went on forever..

Great hand jams in a crisp gritty crack, they're just a little hard to reach. Really a pretty neat climb.

Difficult and sustained. Climb up faintly chalked holds and hard to see feet. 

 A couple ways to start, the most natural seems to be going from the chalked sloper up to a left hand side pull pinch, and then working up the shallow dihedral feature on the right.

 The first two thirds of the route is beautiful and delicate balance climbing on very thin pockets and edges.

 Reach a rest below the big overhanging bulge and power over it to the top.

 If this line was bolted, or had more convenient top rope bolts it would get climbed all the time.

"This is a difficult but awesome right-facing arete."  There are two bolts for a TR over the right face. Crux comes after the halfway-ledge, where the solid arete hands contrast with thin feet. Easy top out and great route overall! (Route info from Rock Climbing Oregon Falcon Guide + my experience) 

This is really an excellent line, continuous and sustained with one good rest in the middle.  

  Start on thin holds and move up in a straight line (harder),  

  or start slightly left (uphill) and use big sidepull pockets to join the direct start (easier).  

  Make a few dynamic moves to reach a big jug/ledge and mantle up. Move out right into more difficult and continuous terrain. Stellar.

Start out with some face climbing and work into a fingers/layback crack higher. Requires surprisingly little crack technique.

Climb up nice little pockets on balancy face moves. Bolts at top for easy setup.

Start up easy and obvious chalked pockets. Easy climbing leads to a leftish traverse at the overhang to the arete (crux). Also possible to move straight up over ulta-thin holds and reach the arete higher up (harder).

Work your way up opposing edges/liebacks onto a ledge and through a short hand crack to the top.

Starts thin hands and then transitions into a wide section then good hands in the back of a flare. All in all a nice route.

Definitely one of the best face routes at Meadow Camp. Start on slightly overhanging face holds just a few feet right of the start for "Solstice" and work up to an interesting traverse right and up to a big ledge.    From the ledge you have two choices: 

  1) move left and make a difficult balance move left around the arete, and continue up the left side reaching back around right when you get to the obvious pockets. With your right hand in the pockets, make a hard pull to a small pinch on the arete, then gain the top! (11d/12a) (Note: you do have to contrive slightly to keep yourself from reaching all the way over to the right edge when you gain the pockets, but otherwise this really is a pretty natural line) 

  Or:   2) Stay on the right side of the arete, moving up with one hand on each side of the pillar, utilizing heel hooks on both sides. (10d/11a) (this way also feels a little contrived since you aren't fully entering the crack on the right)

Lieback your way up a windy wide-crack flake with good feet most of the way. Crux might be the top, but mostly just sustained.

Cupped hands to fists through a bulge, or lieback. Steep at the start, easy over the bulge to the top.

High quality grunting in an awkward flare, face holds ease the difficulty some especially near the top. 

 While it is a well known fact that all chimneys are 5.8, I listed this one a little higher to help with self esteem issues in a sport climber town.

 If this was three times as tall it would be a classic. Still good fun, and a good place to hone awkward flared chimney skills.

Climb the left side of the scary hollow flake.

Fun continuous movement right off the ground, working through unusually large features for meadowcamp. Good footwork is rewarded, gain a ledge and balance your way into position of the second (but much easier) crux-reaching the topout.  Could be a highball boulder problem if it was just the lower crux and a better landing.

Go up whichever way you want, liebacking the angling flake seemed most natural to me. One of the easier routes around, good for people lacking in crack technique.

climb the prominent arete between pre-school and happy man. This arete features two mantle moves that are separated by thin face climbing. the first mantle is by far the easier of the two but both take some balance and trickery to get through. the climb then finishes on the final 5 feet of the left variation of Pre-school.

The golden face between "Tight Squeeze" and "Hercules".  Almost dead center of the face, start on two head high pockets and make moves up to the flat ledges above. Move into the left facing rail then out right to a gaston crimp. From here move through the pockets of varying sizes straight up the slightly overhanging face. Technical and committing to the last move. TR anchors up top, but makes for an amazing boulder problem.

This crack bears a striking resemblance to the Incredible Hand Crack and Indian Creek. Its thin hands to a slightly wider thrutchy finish (crux).

Climb the obvious crack, using some jams and a lot of face holds.

Enjoy some fun liebacking/stemming as you pull through some bulges.

Climb up either side of the apron-like pillar to a ledge, then up the short corner to the top. On the right side you can climb up either some easy (5.7) face, or up the hand crack and traverse--although it is more natural to just continue up this crack to the top.

Climb the left side of the flake using liebacks and fingerlocks. A little more strenuous than it looks from the ground, but not deserving of the 10b rating it gets in the Falcon guide.

Climb the wide crack on the right side of the pillar shared with Tick Tack.

Nice thin hands to an awkward crux where the crack widens out into a strange pod (harder than it looks from the ground). Then a fun hand-sized cruise to the top.

Pretty standard lieback, finish left in crack (easier) or go straight up for an interesting face topout.

Nice hand-to-fist crack. Crux is where it widens up at the top. Likely harder for smaller hands.

Climb just the hand crack at 5.7, or just the finger crack to the right at 5.9...Or just do whatever you want because you can.

Follow obvious chalked holds just left of a boulder (much more difficult if one uses only the chalked holds, and contrives to avoid the chockstones/boulder), diagonally up and right to an obvious deep pocket, then straight up to anchors. Would not recommend as an onsight solo/boulder due to somewhat deceptive upper holds.

Fun, fairly sustained route. Mostly fingers to wide fingers.

A reachy start leads to a low crux full of pockets. Easier moves off wide crimps and jugs make a more straightforward top.

Obvious lieback corner, really a nice route. Crux in the middle.

This is a short south and east facing basalt cliff band just a few minutes outside Bend in national Forest, best for top-roping. The cliffs are between 20 and 40 feet tall. There are bolted anchors at least every ten feet along the top of the cliff. Most obvious climbs follow cracks and/or corners of some kind, although the faces between can also be climbed. The climbing can be delicate or physical and is almost all vertical.  

  While you may not be able to get in as many pitches as in the gym, it is real rock, outside, often secluded and by the river. It gets pretty hot in summer due to the aspect although large pines shade a handful of the climbs.  

  Although some climbs were probably named at one point, the top rope anchors mean that you can really climb anything, anywhere and "routes" aren't really defined. There are no bolts for sport climbing, please don't bolt unless you are replacing existing anchors. It's a 30 foot cliff with cracks and everything has already been climbed a hundred times on TR and as high ball boulder problems. If you want to clip bolts go to Smith. 

  There are also some good boulders along the base and at the downstream end of the cliffs.

Stars Next Door

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Meadow Camp