Planet Terror

Aloha Left Arete

Tin Roof

Unknown Fingercrack

Aloha Far Left

Trailer Park Arete

Unnamed Prow

Roof Problem Right

Big Scoop, Left Wall

Laid Back

Sloper Problem (aka The Impossible Undercling)

Trailer trash

Pushin' Rope

Unknown V2

Five Minutes

Aloha Arete

Pocket Problem, Left Wall

Godwin Direct

Hot Carl

Unknown crack #2

Work through the overhanging ring locks/tight hands and pull through the roof. Set off into a hands/fists crack that also doubles as a never ending pit of dirt and leaves. Fist/arm bar/chimney your way through the lichen and wide section to the salvation of tight hands to finish strong. 

Start at a large undercling and make long moves past friendly holds. A nice contrast to the more technical right arete.

This problem is on the steepest part of the big wall in the Trailer Park. Pull on at low sidepulls and climb past a wide edge and a tiny, painful undercling to reach a right-facing crimp in the roof. Pop for a good hold over the lip, then campus a couple of moves and top out on dirty holds.

A nice lock or two along the overhanging fingercrack followed by an exciting, wandering, slopey and dirty highball topout(but easy). An obvious line that required an ascent. Recommended for the purist.

Sit start with very low holds and go straight up past an intriguing flat sloper into the sandy horizontal. The topout has some hidden holds. Crack to the right is off.

The short arete that beckons from the approach trail. Begin at a large triangular sloper and follow the arete to a sorta-big reach for the lip. Top out on slick rippled crimps. Feels super stout without good beta.

Great compression moves on a seductive feature. Begin low, at a sloper in a horizontal seam. Squeeze the rippled left wall and big slopers out right, finishing on vertical rock with a couple long reaches. Be careful what you grab while topping out. This would be a popular classic if not for the large, pointy boulder in the landing and some poor rock up high.

Start on obvious sloppy rail in the middle of the large roof and climb up and right on the sloppy slot holds to a good crimp.  make a move to a "tooth" hold and topout on the huge shelf.  carefully scoot along the shelf and exit right.  trying to topout straight up is not advised.  Very tall and Very dirty on Very questionable holds.

Fingery and technical. Begin with the good right hand "hole" at the bottom of the scoop. Climb out the scoop to a bad horizontal edge/pinch, then right through shallow seams. Stick the big horizontal and drop off or do the awful, dirty topout. Taller climbers will have a significant advantage.

Like the arete to the left, this problem is a classic, even though it's short. Start both hands underclinging the left angling crack. Move left to a layback dish along the crack. From here, put together a beautiful sequence of laid back moves including delicate footwork on perfect features, a sloper, an edge, and a final lunge to a jug at the top of the block.

Improbable and highly technical (in the best way.) Start on a good right-facing hold around waist height and head straight up, using a big and very sloping undercling to reach somewhat hidden holds up high. Finish with a trademark mantel. Good footwork and body English are essential.

Start on Hot Karl, and take a hard left out of the overhang via the pinch/crimp-pocket hold (<<--you'll likely match this hold, or bury your right hand in the crimp-pocket). From here make a big leftward move to a decent, but sloping, left-handed gaston, and toe down to fish your right hand out over the lip to more slopers. Then, get set up and figure out how to heave your body upwards toward the top-out jug. The crimp seam is surprisingly bad and the finishing jug feels like it's miles away. If you feel like you're wrestling a grizzly bear you're on the right path. A really fun problem that's on par with the classic hard moderates in the canyon.

Start on low rail on right side of boulder and go straight up or veer right. 

Start at the skirt and climb easily to the bulge, which is covered with bad slopers. Figure out a way to grovel over the top.

Start with crimps and make a couple tricky moves to the excellent sloper rails on the arete, then onward to a gravy finish. Smart footwork and body position are essential.

Fine pocket pulling on a gently overhanging face. Begin at sloping underclings and head for the good horizontal. Drop off, or top it out if you're into choss, dirt, and unnecessary danger.

Pull on with crimpy underclings and head for the slopey ledge out left. Bust right toward the horizontal, then drop off, or top out if you're in the mood for a faceful of moss and dirt. Fingery.

Big moves out of a roof on a free standing boulder past the left boulder in the Beta photo.  Kind of sketchy landing.  Put up by Carlito (Dr) Goff back in the early days of Kelly Canyon.

Right facing corner, starts with hands and fists, a nice rail to crank on then nice fingers with big feet to the top. Fun mellow romp.

This is the first area reached from the trail. Lots of good stuff here. One of the first areas in the canyon to dry out, though the scooped wall at left typically overhangs a sizable pool late into the spring.  

  Problems are sorted counter-clockwise, beginning at the bottom of the trail.

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Routes in Trailer Park