A pleasant outing on fairly good-quality quartzite.  Starts from a copse of scrub oak, climbs over a small overhang past the first bolt, and then continues more-or-less straight up on lower-angled terrain with the occasional vertical section. Holds abound, and there is some fun, juggy, side-pulling to be had.

Equipped by Christian Knight.

Dude, It's Classic!

Intimidator

Ledgarithm

Cosmic Space Dust Lazers

Chillax

Knuckle Dragger

Stolen Thunder

A pleasant, low-angle route on surprisingly good quality quartzite. Scramble up eight or ten feet to the first bolt, and follow the bolts upward and slightly right-trending. Positive holds for hands and feet; a bulging section or two.

Pull the roof to the left of

Ledgarithm

's third pitch (about 5.7). The first bolt is straight above the belay about 8 feet (all of the bolts are dark powder-coated grey). Then the route goes up about 8 feet more to the roof on the left. It looks hard but it's solid rock and there are great holds.

The second pitch follows the last pitch of

Ledgarithm

for three bolts and then moves right out over the steep terrain that is incredibly sandy and dirty. The climbing is quite sustained but well protected.

An easy multi pitch with great rock and good belay stances. The pitches are fairly short and interrupted by many ledges. You can link pitches 2 and 3 but the rope drags a little. The rock quality deteriorates a bit on the last pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.5): Climb straight up a low angle slab with positive edges until you reach a large ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.7): Climb up and to the right traversing flakes and edges until you get to a small "gap" in the exposed arete that you are on. Reach across and pull up using big holds and enjoy the temporary exposure before reaching a small ledge with 2 bolts for an anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb up towards a steep but subtle prow using big holds and interesting body positioning until you pull a small bulge. Once past this bulge continue up on positive edges and pull a small roof, arriving at a large grassy ledge with 2 bolts for anchors. It is possible to skip the last roof on this pitch and traverse left to a ledge with with ring anchors and an exposed path to the walk off.

After pitch three it is possible to walk off to the north and then back down the gully.

Additional pitches established some time after the first three await above:

The added six pitches work their way up as high as the rock goes. The first four additional pitches take you up to a high ridge-line/steep meadow, and then an additional pinnacle finishes the route off with two more pitches.

Pitch 4 (5.7): Climb up and to the right, traversing blocky holds on a slightly overhanging bulge and ending on a spacious ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 5 (5.7): Climb straight off of the belay and tackle a strenuous mantle, then move up and left over nice edges to finish at a ledge with ring anchors

Pitch 6: (5.7) Climb up into a mildly overhanging corner and pull over the steep corner. Continue up slabby terrain to a ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 7 (5.4): Very short scramble up to a tiny wall with a single bolt+hanger. Kind of a mini-pitch. Walk along the ridge for awhile and then scramble to the base of the next wall.

Pitch 8 (5.7): Climb up a low angle exposed arete with an occasional bulge until you reach a small pedestal ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 9 (5.10): Climb past several small holds directly off the belay working up to a flake and bigger holds slightly left. Continue up through steep exposed bulges with smaller holds until you arrive on some ledges with ring anchors just below the summit.

Walking off to the NW towards the saddle of Trilogy Buttress and down to the West is the easiest way off of the route. However, you can rappel the entire route if you have a 70m rope.

Admin note

: This description is an amalgamation of the original description of this route by

Christian Knight

and the description from an entry titled

Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (extension)

by

Jason MT

. The later entry was merged with this entry.

Also note that the consensus rating will be off until many more climbers put in their ratings. The ratings from the extension entry did not make it in the merge.

The crux comes right at the start. Look for a really neat white crimp under the second bolt and head out left. The corner looks nice but it is actually a bit crumbly.

The crux is right off the ground, but well protected. The rock is a bit crumbly but will clean up. Cruiser climbing on good holds.

Lower off or rappel via ring anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

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