This spectacular line goes more-or-less up the center of the gently overhanging 'switchblade' formation. While there are some crispy bits that will continue to flake off, most of the climbing is on good rock. Being taller than 5'10" or having a large wingspan may prove advantageous in a few sections. I am 5'10" with a negative ape index and felt like there were some reaches close to my limit. Off the deck, you will encounter some 5.12 edging and may be tempted to use the feature left of the dihedral - I personally think that it climbs better without it, but do whatever makes you happy. After that, the difficulty backs off a tad until you encounter the roof. Delicate and technical climbing is required to work into the roof then some burl to get over it. Some 'thank God' jugs just over the roof help to keep the lactic acid in check. Easy and strenuous climbing ebbs and flows until your reach the redpoint crux, which is getting through the last two bolts to reach the anchors. In general, this has lots of jugs and patina edging bliss - well worth the hike.

Blade Runner

Sliced Open

Six Blade Knife

Cutting Out

Rather Fight Than Switch

Fintastic

Under The Knife

Scramble up low angle rock to a (somewhat unnecessary) first bolt on a slab that cannot be seen from the ground. Climb past four more bolts on a band of rotten rock, pull a small overhang on jugs, and arrive at a slab for a no hands rest while trying to figure out how to pull the overhang before the top. Hint: it's the crux, a pretty stiff one too.

This is the leftmost route on the east face of Switchblade. The first bolt is to the left of a crack. Climb up broken ramps aiming for a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Climbing out of the dihedral to the face above is supposed to be the crux, but the holds are still pretty small above the crux. The anchor is guarded by another heart-breakingly thin section. Get a good rest while you can.

Climb the overhanging bulge on the left side of the prow. I found the crux a bit burly and tricky but well-protected. A second easier crux is found near the top. Make sure not to cut too far left onto ?Fintastic?.

This is a two-pitch route. I only did the first pitch, and it was a great warm-up for the area. This route is the second bolt line from the left on the east-facing wall.

Pitch 1 (5.10b, 80 feet?): climb up good edges and knobs to a small roof, traverse slightly to the right under the roof, then make a step left to get over the roof. The rest of the route is easier but still enjoyable all the way to the anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.10b): continue climbing up on knobs from the anchors of pitch 1. Apparently it gets easier near the top.

To get down from the anchors of pitch 2, make two rappels.

Fun, blocky climbing up a crack leads upwards. When the crack peters out, gain the prow for a moment, and then cut back left to a thin crux near the top.

This is the rightmost bolt line on the south-facing buttress. Start with easy slab moves to the first bolt, then follow the right arête of the buttress all the way to the top. It has varied and interesting moves throughout: cracks, underclings, laybacks, overhangs, and thin slabs. The crux seems to be getting over the final bulge before the anchors, on sharp crystals with terrible feet. A rest before the final bulge makes it a good candidate for an onsight.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Switchblade