INCA ROADS 5.7 ** 140' M (8b)

Begin on the outer edge of the corner about 10' left of Buena Vista. Boulder up to the large ledge then climb the short dihedral. Step right and climb the face above staying just left of the large vertical crack. At the roof about 2/3rds of the way up step right to keep it easier and more consistent with the rest of the route. The upper 1/3rd eases off considerably. 3 bolt anchor over the top. The bolt protected crux is about 1/3rd of the way up, but a wide range of cams are needed (#0  to 4) to protect the whole routes as well.

INCA ROADS

BUENA VISTA

TUESDAY'S JUST AS BAD

FRONTERA

LADYTRON

FRANKLIN'S TOWER

NUCLEAR BURN

QUIET SUN

SUNDAY'S CHILD

SEA BREEZES

THE WIND CRIES MARY

STORMY MONDAY

BOOK OF SATURDAY

SOL CALIENTE

A FULL MOON IN MARCH

WHO KNOWS WHERE THE TIME GOES

RITE OF SPRING

SLIPKNOT!

SOL CALIENTE 5.9 ** 100 M (10b)

Climb the broken face 20 left of Buena Vista, starting at the short vertical wall, to mantle onto the large ledge 15 up, continue right and up (using the vertical crack and horizontal slots for gear protection). Sustained moderate climbing leads to the high crux. 2 chain anchors are on the top lip for toproping. (2 bolt anchors are set back 30 at the right of the top ledge.)

BUENA VISTA 5.10a *** 95-125' F (10-12b)

A prominent clean line up the right side of the West Wall. Begin about 40' left of the short cliff section with the low roof, at the base of a small black water seep mark, and climb the left side of the face just right of the large vertical crack. Overall this is a sustained route with a variety of climbing that may seem soft for the grade but has a lower crux getting past the 3rd bolt that is pretty fantastic. There is also an easier crux just below the 2 chain anchors after the 10th bolt. There are also 2 bolt anchors just below the top at the right edge of the face for a party wanting to finish on top.

TUESDAYS JUST AS BAD 5.8 * 50' G

On the short south face at the right (south) end of West Wall, begin 10' right of the pedestal atop the lower arête. A boulder start leads to progressively harder moves up the shallow right facing corner to the chain anchors on top. Well protectable with cams.

FRONTERA 5.8 ** 95' M (5b)

Begin 40' right of Buena Vista, just left of the large overhanging shorter face. Climb directly up to the chain anchors on top. Mostly a gear route (a wide range of cams are needed for the horizontal cracks and pockets), offering sustained and interesting climbing.

LADYTRON 5.7 ** 100 M (6b)

Begin a few feet right of Wind Cries Mary, just left of the detached pillar. Climb the sharp crack up the face then up and diagonally right to end below the top ledge just left of the bonsai pine. Needs a wide range of cams to protect. Very nice sustained climbing.

FRANKLIN'S TOWER 5.5 *** (105') M (7b)

In the middle of the West Face, begin about 10' right of "Slipknot!" and 10' Left of the obvious outer corner edge. Climb the lower 2/3rds of the face on excellent incut holds (5.4). At the "tower" climb the narrow rib right of the chimney to traverse left half way up to the excellent gear protected crux above. Continue to the 2 chain anchors on top. Although maybe hard for the grade seeming due to the exposure, this is an excellent easier yet sustained route, with a wide variety of climbing on excellent rock.

NUCLEAR BURN - 5.10a ** (100') F (9b)

Climbs the same narrow section of the wall as Buena Vista (on the right end of the West Wall), beginning about 10' right of that other route, and climbing the right side of the face. The lower 50' is sustained interesting climbing, then it eases off considerably and continues to the high directional bolt right of the chain anchors (shared with Buena Vista).

QUIET SUN 5.9 * 100 M (7b)

Begin 15 left of Sol Caliente and climb the crack at the right side of the face below the semi-detached pillar until it is possible to traverse right to climb past the large ledges to the thin upper bolt protected crux and the 2 chain anchors on the lip (ends about 10 left of Sol Caliente). A wide range of cams are needed to protect the bottom, middle and top.

SUNDAYS CHILD 5.6 ** 50' M (2b)

Climbs the left side of the short south face. Start at the pedestal atop the lower arête below the lower roof, step onto the face from the top of the pedestal and climb directly up to the 2 chain anchors below the top blocks. Several medium cams needed to protect middle part.

SEA BREEZES 5.7 ** 90 M/F (8b)

Yet another interesting sustained moderate West Wall route Begin about 15 left of Wind Cries Mary and climb directly up the fractured face to the anchors on top (makes for a good safe rap route for the cliff; 2 chains plus single bolt anchor). Can be led with just the bolts, but also can take several cams and nuts to make it safer.

THE WIND CRIES MARY 5.7+ *** 100' F (11b)

This is a fantastic (if a bit brittle) route up the left side of the West Wall that starts at the bottom of a narrow "V" formation, 15' left of the large pillar at the base. Climb directly up the fractured face, through sustained, ever more difficult moves (wonderful pockets and in-cut edges). The low angled upper 25' is much easier. Belay at the 2 bolt anchors over the top on the big ledge (115'), or lower from the 2 chain anchors below the top.

STORMY MONDAY 5.8 ** 60' F (6b)

From the top of the pedestal at the left side of the south face step up and right to follow the bolts to the 2 chain anchors (atop Tuesdays). Take a couple of long slings to extend the chains for top-roping.

BOOK OF SATURDAY 5.7** 60' G

Climb the crack up the first inside corner at the right end of the West Wall. Excellent gear protects the lower lieback (crux) half leading to an exciting finish stemming through the top blocks. Single bolt over the top, nuts and long sling also needed for top anchor.

A FULL MOON IN MARCH 5.10a ** 100 F/M (9b)

Begin on the face at the right side of the large chimney (right of Sea Breezes) and climb directly up through the two small roofs, following the left edge of the right face. Consistent and interesting climbing all the way to the chain anchors (shares with Sea Breezes), may want a cam to place after 2nd bolt.

Who Knows Where The Time Goes - 5.8 *** 55' M (3b)

An excellent face climb up the left edge of the south face. Begin at the base of the arête and climb just right of the arête to the 2 chain anchors (with extra bolt) on top. An assortment of nuts and cams (small to medium) are needed before, between and after the bolts. It is possible to step left and climb the arête for the last 15' but this misses the crux and lowers the rating to about 5.6 *.

RITE OF SPRING 5.7 ** 110 F (10b)

On the face right of the big crack/chimney by Sea Breezes, climb up and right to the 2 bolt anchors on top. Steep, sustained and varied.

SLIPKNOT! 5.9 **  105 M (8b)

Begin 5 right of the pillar in the middle of the face and climb directly up the broken face (through the two overhangs half way up). A mix of bolts and cams protect this sustain route with enjoyable climbing, A cordelette is recommended for extending the top anchor past the lip if wanting to toprope.

This is also a good single 60m rope rap route for the south end of the face (2 chain anchors plus one bolt), located just south of the bonsai pine on top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Wall