Climb to crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. Above the crack go to arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform belay ledge. Go up switch backing up outside corner face. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face and exit left onto another platform belay. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off tree past a non climbable ceiling. while the tree sways back and forth friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling and boogie up sustained friction slab to belay on tree ledges. Climb ledges easy friction separated by trees ledges to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on the first ascent.

climb up the right side of the giant dike for a long pitch. Do a dirty traverse out of dike onto the inside left facing corner until you can gain access to this outside corner and belay. Way to much dirt! Continue up on the edge cautiously on the look out for ten pound loose rocks and belay. Continue up rock and trees to the summit.

climb up the breaks in the giant dike arches left side until you can do long traverse west on horizontal ledge until below the V-groove of W1. first break is the crux (5-6)

This arete has two starts. You can either begin up the outside corner's face long crux (5-8-)(protected by two bolts, these bolts looked poorly 20+ years ago) and get stopper gear in higher up or go up hill into the giant dike to traverse left crux onto the outside corner. Continue up face short crux (5-8-) to reach horizontal tree ledge and belay. Climb the v-groove crack (5-5) and no pro and traverse left to end of tree ledge to belay. Go up and left through break in arch (5-6) to the summit. The V-groove tends to fill up with leaves and dirt unless someone has recently climbed it. It's easily cleared away while climbing. The last pitch at the top and is often damp. Pitch one especially when traversing into the face should can be split into two pitches because of the rope drag.

this climb has two starts. There is the friction ramp slab (5-6) just to the or further left west the inside left facing corner (5-7) to the same belay stance. From this stance move up until you can gain crack though arch (5-9) onto the slab crack to another arch with a semi hanging belay. Follow this arch west and up (5-7) to tree ledge belay. Climb up ledges and past trees to summit. The last arch has some nuisance brush growing out of it and a old pin. I aided the crack first ascent and Ted Hammond lead it free.

This area is quite large, it encompass all the routes left of The Black Gully. Most routes are multi-pitch adventures in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. Currently, the only modern routes are on the wall just to the left of the gully. Most other routes are committing slabs with aging hardware.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The West End