Pretty cruxy all the way. Slightly overhung, very fingery, maybe a touch harder than SENTENCED.  Most holds are full pad with a few exceptions.  Good moves, 2.5 stars.

Finger Prince

Jailbreak

Assault with Battery

Hard Time

Crime and Punishment

Cold Hand Luke

Yard Boss

Solitary Refinement

Safecracker

Prison Overcrowding

Climb Spree

Just Punishment

Thief

Sentenced Traverse

Petty Theft

The Big House

Armed Robbery

Grand Theft Otto

Sentenced To Hang

Ultra-sustained, harder than either SENTENCED or FINGER PRINCE.  The higher you go the harder it gets (as it should be).  Crimpy, espec. up high.

Sustained climbing with a cool finish up the hanging arete at the top.    Gets sun all day and is sheltered from the prevailing winds.    This and Ben's route make for a decent warmup for the .11's and .12 on Jail House.

From the step traverse right past bolt to small fingers crack to ledge, up and right over some more ledges then up and under a big boulder to a chimney splitting top two towers to chains between towers. You can also scramble up the steps and around the left side of the tower to the chains to set up a TR.

This route is on Jailhouse proper. It is just left of Armed Robbery and is an excellent, water polished crack climb. Climb the crack until it peters out then clip a bolt which protects the crux. Pull this move which is significantly harder than anything below, then gun for the anchor above. There is a bit more space between the bolt and the anchor than most of us would like, but it is by no means unsafe.

 BE CAREFUL with your gear placements on this one as cams have previously skated out of the water polished crack resulting in injury. That said, there is plenty of solid pro to be had if you keep a cool head and don't rush your placements.

All I remember is that I wouldn't go out of my way to do this one again.

Onsighted to the last move on a top rope inspection run by Matt Birch, this route is now bolted and an open project. (Matt left for his V14 boulder projects in Flagstaff before he had a chance to red point it.)  We're all working on it, so it's an open race for the FA. Matt's back in April and he will get it on his next run, so if you want it you better get after it!! 

  The 12d rating is subject to change, but it's several letter grades harder than anything else on the wall. Expect crimpy, technical, powerful moves, a couple of hard clips and the crux up high.    

  It's been redpointed by the irascible EFR.  No more open project, no glory now. Just good hard climbing for all those who get on it.

Crack flake to buttress.  Two distinct cruxes.  A good warm up climb as it gets early sun.

This route ascends small ledges leading to a thin crack which takes you to a set of chain anchors.  It overhangs slightly and is very pumpy.  There are good gear placements, but the climbing is tiring.  I have seen some good leader falls on this line.  It is to the left of the prominent crack system of Crime and Punishment on Jailhouse Rock.

Fairly sustained and harder than it looks.  Go straight up, instead of busting right to the arete,at the last bolt for a few more hard moves.    Much harder than it looks.    

The crux is the first 10 feet but it stays strenuous and has a tricky finish.

A good possibly great route with fun moves and multiple cruxes.  This route was done entirely from the ground and was never top-roped by Geir which makes it a proud first ascent.  Geir figured out all the moves and protection by starting from the ground and climbing until he fell off.  Tons of falls including a couple of 20 footers make his efforts noteworthy.  Add to that the fact he has only ever done a handful of 5.12 sport routes and I have to tip my hat to him. 

  The route at first seems to be a total squeeze job. Despite using holds from routes on either side the pro is in a separate crack and the climbing closely follows it.  The shared holds don't take away from the climb because you can't really bail to the other route to avoid the hard climbing.  If you lead it you might ask yourself if a hold is on.  IF YOU CAN REACH IT YOU CAN USE IT.  At the top a single bolt drilled from a hook that popped off the first time protects the final crux with a 12 ft. run out to the top.  This adds some spice to the finish and is typical of the routes at this cliff.

Discontinuous crack system to the left of the chimney (Petty Theft). Shares the same anchor. Run-out face climbing at the top.

Start sitting at the beginning of Crime and Punishment, and traverse on positive crimps and slopes to the beginning jug of sentenced to hang. it might seem difficult at first, but when the sequence is worked out, one will find that it is not so bad.  

  if you continue into sentenced to hang, it checks in at 12c. this might disappoint some--seeing as it was proposed to be V6 into 5.12. however, it is MUCH easier than 13a.

This is the obvious chimney/crack system near the left end of Jailhouse Rock. At the top of the left pillar you can see the anchors for this climb.  

  Near the bottom of the route the rock quality isn't very good but the climbing is easy. After about 15 feet the rock improves and the real climbing begins. From here you can stem, jam, or climb the face (take your pick) to the base of an easy 10-foot hard to protect chimney that leads to the anchors.

Follow the wide crack system until it ends, then face climb 10' or 20' taking the path of least resistance and exiting to the left. Currently shares anchors with Thief and Petty Theft.

Easier after the first 15 feet but sustained and steep long but safe fall potential.  In 1988 we had two starts to this route.  The left is 5.11 and the right is 5.11+.  The right start now has an independent finish.  The line is called Climb Spree and is still 11+.   

  A new start that begins below the crack (Crime and Punishment) and uses small holds to reach the same good ledge as the original start.  Not any easier but if you are sick of the original start it is different.  Clip the first bolt of the route then come down and start to the left.

Did this route once a long time ago; I think it was OK.  Goes pretty much straight up.   I think I used a #1 Camalot in a vertical crack, maybe another couple of smaller cams/medium nuts below it.  Anyone with more details, feel free to let me know and I'll edit this.

The climb ascends overhanging water polished rock.  Moves are long and powerful between good holds with the crux pulling on smaller holds with the same long moves.  Although only 50ft. long it takes some good endurance to make it to the top.  Add the boulder traverse from the start of Crime and Punishment into the climb (V6)  and it is 13a.

Prison Camp's premier wall features hard sport and traditional lines on slightly overhung water-polished stone.  While the routes are a short fifty feet they tend to be full value.  The slippery nature of the rock, powerful initial moves, and sometimes sporty bolting may be off-putting to some; nevertheless, this unique wall should not be missed by those climbing at the grade. 

  Due to its northeast orientation and breezy dry riverbed location this wall is surprisingly chilly in the winter.  In the winter this wall sees only an hour or two of morning sun.  The best time to project these routes is spring and fall afternoons. 

Petty Theft, Grand Theft Otto, and Cold Hand Luke are found at the left end of Jailhouse Rock.  The rock is vertical to less-than-vertical and not as water polished. 

Hard Time and Assault With Battery are actually not part of Jailhouse Rock proper but are further downstream and south facing.  These two routes receive all-day sun.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jailhouse Rock