This is a great arete climb on some good rock! If you start from the corner and step around the arete, it will put you in a good position to clip the bolt that is far off the deck.

Beyer 1

4_P_Beyer

Colonel Rhombus

Beyer 2

Beyer 0.5

Beyer 3

Beyer 0.25

Beyer 4

Beyer 5

Start in the corner that created the arete for

Beyer 1

. Continue up passing a large flake where you can place gear. Stand on flake and make a balancy move to clip the first bolt. From here, you can choose super hard slab climbing up and left, or bail slightly right on better holds to gain the 2nd and 3rd bolt. From here, ascend some steep terrain where the rock changes. Make a fun sidepull move to a great pocket where you can finagle a nut into. Make another move and place a red c3 if you care to. Do not get suckered into heading towards the fixed head. Instead, you can hand traverse right to gain a ledge where you can mantle and clip a bolt (slightly runout but on easy terrain). The next two bolts were the crux with some tenuous moved to gain and then leave a shallow seam. Clip one last bolt and balance your way to the anchor!

This is a nice, adventurous, multi-pitch climb on a nice, large face. While a bit sporty in some areas, the rock quality, movement, and length all make it a good outing.

Pitch 1: 5th class up to the obvious ledge or start the day with the route

Beyer 5

(70').

Pitch 2: The money pitch. Use lots of long slings to reduce rope drag. From the right hand side of the ledge slab, climb high until you can clip the first bolt. There is a deep, well-featured, peg band that forms a rail to the left which has a bolt or two, stay right of this. Continue up clipping bolts and begin traversing left. Make a fun move around an arête and gain a large ledge halfway up the pitch. From here, make a committing move on another rail like feature (the previously noted climb to the left can be reached via this ledge and a bolt way out left dont clip it. Keep traversing up and left to gain a bolted anchor. 5.10 (120').

Pitch 3: Head straight up to a rotten section of rock and follow bolts left. Some tenuous movement gains the right-facing dihedral below the large ledge with a tree. Gear to the tree ledge. 5.10+ (90').

Pitch 4: From the ledge, traverse up and right to clip a bolt and make some balancy movements to gain a left-facing dihedral. Continue up until easier terrain and belay at a tree. 5.10 (90').

Pitch 1. Think of this as more of an approach pitch, 5.6. The bolts seem to be there more to keep the rope out of cactus as the likelihood of falling is small. This will be a rope stretcher for a 60m, but it will get the job done. Climb up the slab start to a tree, go right ,and follow the bolt line avoiding shrubs in the gully to the bottom of pitch 2. Remember this is an approach to the goods, you won't be let down.

Pitch 2. This is one of the finest pitches on this side of Sunday Wall and is very highly recommended. Start up the triple cracks working your way right and up following the bolt line. You then hit the first crux move, go right or go left to pull the crux. It's just about choosing your flavor. Continue to work your way up till you hit a large, slabby, blank-looking dish. Work your way into and up the dish finding feet and hands that are just good enough.

Pitch 3. This is also a great pitch with mostly 5.10- 5.9+ climbing with a very obvious crux move transitioning out of the crack and back onto the face. The move seems improbable, but relax, find the foot out left, and commit, then it's back to moderate climbing following the bolt line to the top. The pitch starts going up and right. You can't see the first bolt at the belay as it's around the right side, but it's right where you'll need it.

Descent- ****you will need two 60s to rap this route. One 70m won't cut it.***

Rap 1. Rap from the top of pitch three two the top of pitch two, a single 70m can rap this, I don't recommend trying to double rope rap to the top of pitch one. Your rope will get stuck.

Rap 2. Double rope rap from the top of pitch 2 to the top of pitch 1.

Rap 3. Double rope rap from the top of pitch 1 to the ground. Do your best to avoid the cactus at the bottom. You will end up near Beyer's routes

one

,

two

,

three

, and

four

.

I was told that this route was named Colonel Rhombus. If someone has other info, just let me know, and I'll fix it.

The first 50 feet could be better. What it does not have in the beginning, it makes up for in the upper part. The 40' bushwack to the start of the route sucks, but with some pruning it could be better!

Head up the gully to reach the first bolt, and step up to the steep wall on good holds. Stick in some gear and clip a few bolts up highly featured rock to the anchors.

The first bolt is way up there, but the climbing is easy. Trend left up the dark rock towards the bolt. From here, make some fun moves through horizontal band of dark rock and on to a steeper section. Some slab moves leads you to the left of the anchor where you can place a green C3 to back up the fixed head before you traverse right to the anchors.

Start up the same 5th class bushy scramble. Pass where

Beyer 0.5

veers left and continue up the the obvious, black crack/groove. Good stemming and jamming leads you to passing to bolts on some slabby terrain to an anchor.

The route needs some cleaning. It has good movements on some sharp edges. It is a bit of a run out on easy terrain to the first bolt. This has the same end as

Beyer 2

, so you may want to pack a green c3.

The crux is around the second bolt. Wander around on the low angle, wavy granite passing two bolts. After placing some gear in a right-angling crack, you can spot the bolt 20ish feet up. This is easy terrain, but be careful!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Zone 1