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Peak Mountain 3

Global Warm-up

FA Evan Wisheropp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a new mega-pitch following an obvious corner right of Psycho Thriller.

the climbing is very diverse, engaging, and cryptic with around a dozen 5.10- sections that are all more of a brief puzzle than any burl and one very technical sequence moving past the 4th bolt.

The wall is mostly vertical or less than vertical and has very comfortable bolt spacing. It helps to back clean the first bolt and use a longer draws on the third so your only drag is 160’ of rope on the final slab sequence.

Location

Jump start to a jug below the large hueco

Protection

24 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Three ways to descend:

  • 80m rope: Lower just barely with a stretchy 80m rope, swinging left to the ledge. This does not work if you plan to leave the draws in place for someone to top rope. Not enough rope to reach the ground.

  • 70m rope: Make a second lower (not rappel) through the Psycho Thriller anchor with a 70m. Friends can then top rope the bottom section of the climb.

  • 60m rope: Tag a second line