- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a work in progress. I am probably the first person to visit this wall for at least 20 years based on the anchor slings, vegetation and dirt.
It was given a 10a rating, and I think there are 2 crux moves around the lower and upper bolts that is more like 10b.
This is a mix of slab with some run-out bolts and flakes with cracks, there are 4 lead bolts and if it were up to me I would add 1 or 2 more bolts.
All but one of the bolts are badly rusted ( 1 bolt is SS )
The hangers are all SS.
It is cleaner now ( 11/11/18 ) but still dangerous with bad bolts.
I added a new SS anchor a bit higher then the old one. 1/21/19
Location
This route is on the center of the wall and wanders to the left following a big flake, and then back right .
The start is face/slab climbing past 2 bolts, the middle is the flake, 2 bolts protect the upper slab. Cramer's guide mentions that a fall after the last bolt, 10a run-out would be injurious and I would agree- also is some insecure face climbing looking at the last bolt over 10 feet below your feet.
Protection
the crack portions would take small cams up to a #3
4 lead bolts
New SS anchor ten feet above old rusty anchor on the slab.