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Peak Mountain 3

Siderinder

FA Fred Grafton, Sabrina Kettle, Jim Gransky, July 1992
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a work in progress. I am probably the first person to visit this wall for at least 20 years based on the anchor slings, vegetation and dirt.

It was given a 10a rating, and I think there are 2 crux moves around the lower and upper bolts that is more like 10b.

This is a mix of slab with some run-out bolts and flakes with cracks, there are 4 lead bolts and if it were up to me I would add 1 or 2 more bolts.

All but one of the bolts are badly rusted ( 1 bolt is SS )

The hangers are all SS.

It is cleaner now ( 11/11/18 ) but still dangerous with bad bolts.

I added a new SS anchor a bit higher then the old one. 1/21/19

Location

This route is on the center of the wall and wanders to the left following a big flake, and then back right .

The start is face/slab climbing past 2 bolts, the middle is the flake, 2 bolts protect the upper slab. Cramer's guide mentions that a fall after the last bolt, 10a run-out would be injurious and I would agree- also is some insecure face climbing looking at the last bolt over 10 feet below your feet.

Protection

the crack portions would take small cams up to a #3

4 lead bolts

New SS anchor  ten feet above old rusty anchor on the slab.


Routes in Sam Hill