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Peak Mountain 3

Joe and His Dog - His Dog Tower

FA Ben Folsom, Andrew Gram 11/20/2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

His Dog is an adventurous tower route. The tower is very narrow and has cracks you can see through even at the base.

P1) Aid up a crack to a 4 bolt ladder to an awkward bulging crack. After pulling over an overhang, 5.6 free climbing leads to a belay ledge and a 3 bolt anchor. 80' 5.6 C2.

P2) Do a weird mantle move right off the belay onto the next ledge system. Walk 20' along the ledge to the summit headwall. Free climb easy terrain past a crack and one bolt, and then climb a steep 5 bolt ladder to another weird mantle move onto the summit. 80' 5.8 C0.

A single 70 meter rope rappel from a 3 bolt anchor gets you back to the ground - anything shorter will require two raps. At least 25' of webbing will be necessary to back up the tat if it is bleached out when this thing gets climbed again.

Location

From the junction of North Coal Wash Road and the Devils Racetrack, continue on the North Coal Wash Road for a mile or so until the towers are visible up a prominent side canyon. Park where the wash from the side canyon hits the road.

Hike up the side canyon, and just before it cliffs out trudge up a dirt and talus slope on the right. Pick your way up the side canyon, eventually reaching the left side of it and going up the first side canyon on the left. Scramble easily out of the canyon onto a broad plateau, and hike cross country to the talus cone. An easy scramble exists starting below His Dog and working left near the top. Make sure to note where you exit the side canyon onto the plateau since it isn't all that obvious on the way back down.

His Dog is the tower on the right, and looks like a dog sitting down.

The hike in takes about an hour and is really beautiful. This same approach also works to get to Devils Monument now that Saddle Horse Canyon is closed to vehicle traffic.

Protection

Stoppers useful, 2 sets of cams to 3 camalot, one old style 3.5, 4, and 4.5 camalot.

70 meter rope is necessary for the rappel.