- Edit (TBD)
Description
One of the region's more sought after hard lines. Unrelentingly hard, steep, and sick.
Begin as for Silverback but immediately trend left into the only part of the concave that is properly horizontal. Climb a v5/6 sequence through reinforced crimp plates, usually skipping the 4th draw, to gain the ledge, good rock, and the only good rest on the route. From here, a roundabout v5/6 boulder problem through crimps, huecos, pinches, and another skipped draw get you to a poor rest in a sharp flake. Try to get here fresh, and you've officially entered the ring with this monster. Leaving the flake, a v4 involving a pumpy match, a wicked pinch (well, not "man show" wicked") and another skipped draw or two deposit you at the last crux. If you are not substantially stronger than this route, prepare to get to know these moves very intimately. Rather than moving left into the redpoint crux of Word Up (Southern Comfort OG finish), make a big cross up and right off of an undercling. Match beside this, and sort out your method for getting to the jug looming above (HINT: power). This is the make or break move, the full sequence clocking in around v4/5, but feeling much tougher on point! Once stuck, rest easily and move left through some 5.10 to share anchors with Word Up. Easy and worthy top out!
Location
Begin on large protruding spike center/left of the concave. Shares the start with Silverback among others.
Protection
Bolts. Most people stick clip the first 2. Open shut anchors.
Routes in The Concave
- 8Southern Comfort Right5.14aSport