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Peak Mountain 3

Southwest Face

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Description

This route starts some 200 feet up the gully on the South side of Seal Rock. This is the gully between Seal Rock and the Penguin.

Like many of the Flatiron South side routes, the initial pitch of this route is more of a traverse pitch than a climb. At the end of traverse, the route follows a ramp system that deposits you in the notch between the East and West summits of Seal Rock.

The route is unprotected in sections and I would give the traverse (crux) an S rating but neither Roach nor Rossiter did.

P1 - the start is confusing and I would guess there are many ways of doing it. Identify an easy way to traverse right (East) towards a large Dual ramp system that leads up the South face. We started about 50 feet West of the ramps and traversed on licheny rock. We belayed at a small crack at the base of the ramps

P2 - climb the left ramp some 15 polished feet and traverse right over an overhang and onto the paralell ramp and run the rope up to the eyebolt on the notch of the summit.

P3 - scramble up the easy but exposed West face of the Eastern summit.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.