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Peak Mountain 3

Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry

FA Paul Marshall and Paul Ross (var leads)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Belfry Tower is located on the east side of the Weasel formation. It is recognised by its double belfry type summit. Two routes have been climbed on this tower. The following route is on the north side. From the approach path to the bottom of the rock(see also description in Wall Street to San Rafael Swell Desert Guide by Eric Bjornstad), walk east passing the south side of Belfry and around the end of the formation until one comes to a very striking fork lighting hand crack on the north side(see photo).

P1) Climb the superb crack to a good ledge and cave with bolt anchors. This will go all free at about 5.11. 120' C1.

P2) Follow grooves and cracks passing double stormed off anchors to a good ledge and bolt belays. 100' 5.9 C1.

P3) Continue up a short offwidth crack, and then climb an unusual squeeze chimney to the summit and a register. 90' 5.8.

FA: Paul Marshall and Paul Ross.

Protection

Two sets of Friends from #1 to #5, with extras from #2 to #3. One #6 could be useful. Set of wires, and two 200' ropes.