South Route

This is a fun scramble up the south side of the head to the summit. The description below roughly follows the pitch breakdown given in the guidebook, but there are a few different variations towards the top. Belaying and protecting the route may be more hassle than it's worth, particularly finding belay anchors towards the top.

1- 4th class- Start in a recessed gully on the south side of the head, with two bolts visible from the ground. Take the easiest line up the face on the left, past the bolts, up to a two bolt anchor with quicklinks. Decent rock (for Camelback). <30 m.

2- 3rd/4th- Continue up gully to the boulders at the top. One sports a single bomber glue in. Trees/boulders to back it up if belaying.

3- Low 5th- Climb the face up and right. Watch for loose rock. No pro off the belay. Traverse to the right on 3rd class terrain, then up a low angle left facing corner/crack.

4- Low 5th- Keep walking right, then pick a route up the low angle slabs in front of you. The easiest option looks to be towards the right. Straight up goes as well, but with no protection. Watch for loose rock.

Descend Pedrick's Chimney. It's very out of the way to return to the base of the route.

From the saddle on Echo Canyon trail at the east end of the head, turn right and pick up a climbers trail headed west. The South Route starts in a gully about a hundred meters west of the Neck Route. It is the first gully you come to, and there are bolts visible at the start. See Phoenix Rock for a pitch by pitch description, and Marty's map for route location.

Maybe a few medium sized cams and nuts. Not much pro after the first pitch.