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Peak Mountain 3

In Lightning

FA Eden Masters and Scott Ayers
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Following James DeRoussel's description for the crag, In Lightning will be one of the first routes you encounter. Look for the continuous bolt line that ends about 120' up the crag; it lies immediately to the left of two other bolted lines that have their anchors halfway up.

Follow the bolts to the two-bolt anchor. For the second pitch, it is wise to move the belay 40' to the large, flat ledge to the right. The moves to the ledge are unprotected Class 4. The ledge is devoid of anchors, so it's a good idea for the leader to clip the second pitch's first bolt to provide a belay. Once everyone's on the ledge, follow the bolts above the short difficulties and then run it out 50' over easy 5th class to the top of the crag. Don't fall up here. You can plug in some medium cams and slot some nuts for an anchor, or just wrap some boulders with webbing.

If you climb this in Monsoon season, chances are the route's name will hold special significance for you. Keep your eye on the clouds.

Protection

About 15 Quickdraws for the first pitch, and maybe 3-4 for the second. Long (20') webbing for the tree/boulder anchor for the second pitch, or use gear.