Dancing Madly Backwards

Dancing Madly Backwards is a great route to try if 5.9's are starting to get less challenging. There's good friction on the sandstone, and the wall isn't quite vertical.

Start the route below a rather large bulge. Climb up under the bulge and work your way right and up to the left end of the obvious roof. Traverse right under the roof using underclings and foot smearing. Once the roof runs out reach up to find small holds (crux 1). Stand up and over roof. Continue up to the shallow dihedral. The last few moves are on small holds (crux 2). A delightful climb!

Standard Rack